Deck the Halls with Balls of Holly!

I enjoyed a few days off over christmas, eating lots and a few drinks on the side. Since then the weather has been fairly useless but have managed to get out a little. Went to Stumphole Cavern the other day and did the 7b+ version, should of flashed it really but the holds were damp. Tried the dyno finish which is yet to see a repeat and got reasonably close! Will be back!

Also headed to Burbage West; where I reached my high point on 'West Side Story' (next time for sure) and did 'Famous Grouse' which is brilliant and quite tricky for 7b+. Just before the rain came we headed to try 'Spring Voyage' at Stanage, got close but needed colder conditions really, its a toughy!
Have been trying to train for the states mainly although I am really psyched for ticking things on grit at the mo.

Anyway off for New Year festivities in Leeds now!

Rings and Superbloc!

Ryan sticking the crux on Superbloc

Had a really good rings session with Paul last night. Felt very strong on everything except dips and off-set pull ups. Even managed 2 sets of 5 muscle ups!! Cashback! Paul rigged up a pulley system to allow us to try iron crosses with assistance of weights. This was really cool but really hard as well!

The video below shows me trying to fly at first!! Automatic reaction to put my legs back! Superman!




Went on Superbloc again today with Ryan and Dan unfortunately Ned had a presentation. I eventually worked out that the sequence that I thought was right was wrong and so reverted back to Ryan's sequence (if that makes any sense)!

Was even closer to sticking the crux! I think for sure that next time this move will go, I hope anyway. Dan did the top out saying that it is not too hard but scary. I am just going to wait for sending psych to try it!

A few from Baslow!

Flatworld LH

Flatworld LH

Eaglestone Bouldering

Superbloc

Went on Superbloc yesterday at Moorside Rocks. For those that dont know it is probably the best looking line in the Peak or up there at least. A big blunt arete on slopers and pockets!!

Headed out with Dan, Ned, Luke and Ryan. Dan had been on it before so had beta for getting to the crux move. I eventually figured out a better way for me to do this but was tired. Got to the stage of slapping to the pocket but not holding it.
Ryan had three good burns of holding the pocket and doing the next move but was too tired by then. Hopefully back on it on Thursday. Ry also made an impressive flash of Suavito!

Had a good fingerboard session when I got home as my finger now feels up to it. Role on training for the states, fingers crossed anyway.

Much Hotter than Expected!

Headed out today with Rhys. First stop was Stanage Right for a bit of a warm up in the sun. Never been here before so did some fun solos and then headed to Baslow to meet Iain and Jamie. The Eaglestone had very soggy landings at most points but did a few new problems. I like this boulder a lot, the problems are all really fun and involve a surprising amount of climbing.

Then headed to Flatworld area. I was keen for LH having had a few goes on it last summer. First go I reached the last move but didnt fancy throwing. I was annoyed cause I thought that the fear factor may get me. Iain then dispatched using a high right heel for the last move. Got up there next go, heel on the arete and did the move static!! Would of liked to chalk and blow but it was a bit greasy for that. Brilliant problem! Tried the origional and should of done it but greased off the top move, decided to save my skin and call it a day!

Some pictures to follow hopefully!

Team Training!

Busy day on Friday started by getting to work for 7 and finishing at 3, a quick bite to eat and some energy hydration and I was off to the School for another rings sess with Lee and Paul. Went pretty well especially the muscle ups. Back home, protein and more food and off to work again, finishing at half 11. Unfortunately this meant missing the Works' party!

Up nice and early on Saturday to get to the new wall at Stockport for 10. Morning consisted of doing a circuit of 20 problems, seeing the physio followed by an afternoon of problem setting and general destroying of our bodies. My finger held up ok after a week of no climbing but probably wont be training inside again this week, just rings, arm work and perhaps outdoors.

Headed up to Preston for the night, watched Amir Khan knock out Graham Earl in 72 seconds, incredible! Just chilled for the rest of the evening. Early morning run on Sunday and then to the West View Leisure Centre for admin and circuit training. These circuits involved 12 exercises doing 30 seconds on, 30 seconds off. By the end everyone was dead! Destroyed abs, shoulders, arms and legs!

Home time. Thank god!

The good news is the weather looks amazing for this week, fingers crossed (not my bad one though!)

Rings, Rings, Rings!

Had a session on the rings tonight with Paul and Lee, was bob on too! Reckon I will feel sore tomorrow! Having a bit of time off from actual climbing at the mo' due to a slight finger niggle, going to be filling my time with arm and core work plus the RINGS!

Had my first High 5 protein bar today, double choclate flavour and it was delice! Yummy!

How was it Dry?!

After the rain last night I was amazed to hear from Rhys this morning telling me the rock was dry! Went to pick up Ned and then headed to Gardoms South. When we got there it felt cold and windy. Slowly warmed up and then went over to try 'Suavito' with Rhys and Dan.

When I first saw this problem I thought it looked amazing but pretty scary, anyway before I knew it I was at the last move and actually it didnt feel too scary at all! It is class climbing, a real gem in the peak!

Thought I would try 'Barry Sheene' next. At first it felt desperate; tiny crimp to a hard rock up followed by a nails match and slap. After about 10 goes it was done but so was my skin!!

Looked at 'Superbloc' on the way back to the car; result was being psyched out of my tiny mind. Hopefully this week will bring some cold days.

Headed up to Gardoms North to try 'Full Power'. A little damp but we both did pretty well, eventually figuring out the moves and Ned making a good link through to the stand up! I was too tired though and so decided to save skin and leave it for another day. Will definately be back soon!

The Swizzy Story

Well to cut it short rain was the story!! When we got there the weather was perfect; cold, blue skies and sun but that changed after a few days and rain was the case!

Brione Stories:
Had a session at Brione on a problem called 'General Disarray' (8b), which is awesome dynamic climbing, I did all the moves but got tired and sadly never returned to the problem. Another Swiss problem on the list. James dispatched as usual!!

Had two sessions on 'Vecchia Leone' (8b), this is probably the best problem I have ever seen in the flesh and am so psyched to do it. First sess I did all the moves and did the problem from 2 moves in. Came back a couple of days later and was having a mare on it. I couldnt even do the first move!!! Then something clicked and I had 4 goes of getting through the crux for me and holding the next hold for a split second then before blowing off. I did it without the first move to the top but ended up getting tired!! Rain came the next day and that was it. So frustrating but I know I can do it on my next session, whenever that is!!

Chironico Stories:
I did very little climbing here. I tried 'Freak Brothers' cause I had been very close on the last trip, unfortunately after my first go I couldnt get the toe hook to stick, I got pissed off and left it. Did a 7c called Powerstrips which was fun. Watched James on 'From Dirt Grows Flowers' (8c), the boy did good and I reckon after a few more sessions he will do it. The problem climbs amazingly!

On the Last day it started to dry up and we managed to squeeze a few hours of climbing in. Did 'That Goes Left' (8a) and 'No Mystery' (8a+) in damp conditions. Would of done 'Schule des Lebans' (8b) too but it was too dark and my foot blew off.
Rhys and Birkby wanted to try 'Doctor Med Dent' (7b+) and because it is right next to a track we drove the cars up next to it for a headlight ascent. Pretty cool climbing but like everything in Swiss a little soft, Haha!

Back in Englands rain now but psyched for training, 2 months till I go to the States so want to be getting strong!

School Room

Having to attend a training day today was not fun, sitting inside while the weather outside was perfect for grit. Probably the best day we have had this year so far, damn!

Headed up to the School room in the evening with Mr. Bennett, Keen youth, and of course Dobbin was there. Warmed up slowly as it was freezing and decided to see if I could do 'Turd Reich' again and indeed I could (2nd go). Moved on the 'Too Fluffy' and 'School Girl', not really ever tried these two much but I did the crux on 'Too Fluffy' and nearly linked 'School Girl' so was quite pleased. Next time!!!

The other three as usual looked waddage; Dobbin repeated 'Too Fluffy' with ease, Paul did 'Stuey's' first go then dispatched numerous other hard thing whilst James just tried everything but with a 6.5 kilo weight belt on!!

Swiss tomorrow, ca$h back!

Sundays a Holy Day so put that Fo' Fo' Away!

Dont know why I chose this title but thank you to Ludacris anyway! Was psyched for a bit of limestone today but woke up and it was damp so all my motivation evaporated. Went to theWorks to do some power endurance stuff; the purple circuit on the training board, managed it 3 times and fell off just at the end of my 4th effort. Felt quite good though, want to get the pink one done!

Watched some beasts on tv doing the rings at a gymnastics event in Glasgow, this Dutch guy had bi-ceps bigger than his head!!

Fingerboard session this evening at Neds which was cool, managed some good one arm hangs and pull ups on the beams, which i was both surpised and pleased with because my pinch strength is so weak! Both of us pulled some classic gurns!

Swiss is getting closer, cant wait till Wednesday, hopefully a School session tomorrow.

A Real Beasting.

After team training last week i realised that my fitness is not so good and in an attempt to clear this up, I am going to start a speed circuit session once a week. Headed down to the Works with strong and elastic boy, Ned for some campusing and circuits.

After warming up we got on the campus board and quickly realised that neither of us felt amazing but we carried on regardless. Four exercises in the campus routine and repeat this three times with a few minutes rest inbetween. Ended up doing ok really.

We then chose 20 problems for our circuit, with the difficulty ranging from about 6b up to 7b+. The circuit involves trying a problem and then immediately getting on the next, two goes maximum on each problem. I ended up completing 14 of the problems but as ever burnt off by Ned with 18. Its good for me though as I have someone to chase!!

New yellow circuit up so we did some of those, pretty good to, nice one Sam and Percy!

Was going to go and try Darkstar again tomorrow but my skin is thin, so a rest day me thinks. Going to Leeds tomorrow night to set for the comp on friday.

Guplets Wall

Guplets on Toast sitter (V8+)

Headed to Guplets Wall today with Mr. Varian to try a highball, unrepeated (I think) V10 of John Welfords. First impressions when we got there was that it looked nails. Warmed up on an ace problem to the left called Guplets on Toast (V8+). Some nice moves followed by a scary top out, at least for me anyway!!

On to Darkstar and after trying to work the bottom bit we decided that the crux was probably a dynamic move into a mono! After trying this for a while Dan stuck it and proceeded to top out, making it look pretty scary! I hit the mono and held it but slid out. So the crux felt ok you just needed to keep your head for the top.

We then found a slightly easier way of doing the first part but my skin was spent and so I stopped. Dan had a good run through from the bottom but forgot about his feet after the mono, oops!! Definately be coming back to this, it really is so good!

Anyway a few hours rest now and then off to the Dream Machine board with Dan, Ned and maybe Fritz Herman aka Tony! Sweet, psyched for some pulling just hope my skin is too!