I enjoyed a few days off over christmas, eating lots and a few drinks on the side. Since then the weather has been fairly useless but have managed to get out a little. Went to Stumphole Cavern the other day and did the 7b+ version, should of flashed it really but the holds were damp. Tried the dyno finish which is yet to see a repeat and got reasonably close! Will be back!
Also headed to Burbage West; where I reached my high point on 'West Side Story' (next time for sure) and did 'Famous Grouse' which is brilliant and quite tricky for 7b+. Just before the rain came we headed to try 'Spring Voyage' at Stanage, got close but needed colder conditions really, its a toughy!
Have been trying to train for the states mainly although I am really psyched for ticking things on grit at the mo.
Anyway off for New Year festivities in Leeds now!
Monday 31 December 2007
Thursday 20 December 2007
Rings and Superbloc!
Ryan sticking the crux on SuperblocHad a really good rings session with Paul last night. Felt very strong on everything except dips and off-set pull ups. Even managed 2 sets of 5 muscle ups!! Cashback! Paul rigged up a pulley system to allow us to try iron crosses with assistance of weights. This was really cool but really hard as well!
The video below shows me trying to fly at first!! Automatic reaction to put my legs back! Superman!
Went on Superbloc again today with Ryan and Dan unfortunately Ned had a presentation. I eventually worked out that the sequence that I thought was right was wrong and so reverted back to Ryan's sequence (if that makes any sense)!
Was even closer to sticking the crux! I think for sure that next time this move will go, I hope anyway. Dan did the top out saying that it is not too hard but scary. I am just going to wait for sending psych to try it!
Wednesday 19 December 2007
Tuesday 18 December 2007
Superbloc
Went on Superbloc yesterday at Moorside Rocks. For those that dont know it is probably the best looking line in the Peak or up there at least. A big blunt arete on slopers and pockets!!
Headed out with Dan, Ned, Luke and Ryan. Dan had been on it before so had beta for getting to the crux move. I eventually figured out a better way for me to do this but was tired. Got to the stage of slapping to the pocket but not holding it.
Ryan had three good burns of holding the pocket and doing the next move but was too tired by then. Hopefully back on it on Thursday. Ry also made an impressive flash of Suavito!
Had a good fingerboard session when I got home as my finger now feels up to it. Role on training for the states, fingers crossed anyway.
Headed out with Dan, Ned, Luke and Ryan. Dan had been on it before so had beta for getting to the crux move. I eventually figured out a better way for me to do this but was tired. Got to the stage of slapping to the pocket but not holding it.
Ryan had three good burns of holding the pocket and doing the next move but was too tired by then. Hopefully back on it on Thursday. Ry also made an impressive flash of Suavito!
Had a good fingerboard session when I got home as my finger now feels up to it. Role on training for the states, fingers crossed anyway.
Tuesday 11 December 2007
Much Hotter than Expected!
Headed out today with Rhys. First stop was Stanage Right for a bit of a warm up in the sun. Never been here before so did some fun solos and then headed to Baslow to meet Iain and Jamie. The Eaglestone had very soggy landings at most points but did a few new problems. I like this boulder a lot, the problems are all really fun and involve a surprising amount of climbing.
Then headed to Flatworld area. I was keen for LH having had a few goes on it last summer. First go I reached the last move but didnt fancy throwing. I was annoyed cause I thought that the fear factor may get me. Iain then dispatched using a high right heel for the last move. Got up there next go, heel on the arete and did the move static!! Would of liked to chalk and blow but it was a bit greasy for that. Brilliant problem! Tried the origional and should of done it but greased off the top move, decided to save my skin and call it a day!
Some pictures to follow hopefully!
Then headed to Flatworld area. I was keen for LH having had a few goes on it last summer. First go I reached the last move but didnt fancy throwing. I was annoyed cause I thought that the fear factor may get me. Iain then dispatched using a high right heel for the last move. Got up there next go, heel on the arete and did the move static!! Would of liked to chalk and blow but it was a bit greasy for that. Brilliant problem! Tried the origional and should of done it but greased off the top move, decided to save my skin and call it a day!
Some pictures to follow hopefully!
Sunday 9 December 2007
Team Training!
Busy day on Friday started by getting to work for 7 and finishing at 3, a quick bite to eat and some energy hydration and I was off to the School for another rings sess with Lee and Paul. Went pretty well especially the muscle ups. Back home, protein and more food and off to work again, finishing at half 11. Unfortunately this meant missing the Works' party!
Up nice and early on Saturday to get to the new wall at Stockport for 10. Morning consisted of doing a circuit of 20 problems, seeing the physio followed by an afternoon of problem setting and general destroying of our bodies. My finger held up ok after a week of no climbing but probably wont be training inside again this week, just rings, arm work and perhaps outdoors.
Headed up to Preston for the night, watched Amir Khan knock out Graham Earl in 72 seconds, incredible! Just chilled for the rest of the evening. Early morning run on Sunday and then to the West View Leisure Centre for admin and circuit training. These circuits involved 12 exercises doing 30 seconds on, 30 seconds off. By the end everyone was dead! Destroyed abs, shoulders, arms and legs!
Home time. Thank god!
The good news is the weather looks amazing for this week, fingers crossed (not my bad one though!)
Up nice and early on Saturday to get to the new wall at Stockport for 10. Morning consisted of doing a circuit of 20 problems, seeing the physio followed by an afternoon of problem setting and general destroying of our bodies. My finger held up ok after a week of no climbing but probably wont be training inside again this week, just rings, arm work and perhaps outdoors.
Headed up to Preston for the night, watched Amir Khan knock out Graham Earl in 72 seconds, incredible! Just chilled for the rest of the evening. Early morning run on Sunday and then to the West View Leisure Centre for admin and circuit training. These circuits involved 12 exercises doing 30 seconds on, 30 seconds off. By the end everyone was dead! Destroyed abs, shoulders, arms and legs!
Home time. Thank god!
The good news is the weather looks amazing for this week, fingers crossed (not my bad one though!)
Wednesday 5 December 2007
Rings, Rings, Rings!
Had a session on the rings tonight with Paul and Lee, was bob on too! Reckon I will feel sore tomorrow! Having a bit of time off from actual climbing at the mo' due to a slight finger niggle, going to be filling my time with arm and core work plus the RINGS!
Had my first High 5 protein bar today, double choclate flavour and it was delice! Yummy!
Had my first High 5 protein bar today, double choclate flavour and it was delice! Yummy!
Saturday 1 December 2007
How was it Dry?!
After the rain last night I was amazed to hear from Rhys this morning telling me the rock was dry! Went to pick up Ned and then headed to Gardoms South. When we got there it felt cold and windy. Slowly warmed up and then went over to try 'Suavito' with Rhys and Dan.
When I first saw this problem I thought it looked amazing but pretty scary, anyway before I knew it I was at the last move and actually it didnt feel too scary at all! It is class climbing, a real gem in the peak!
Thought I would try 'Barry Sheene' next. At first it felt desperate; tiny crimp to a hard rock up followed by a nails match and slap. After about 10 goes it was done but so was my skin!!
Looked at 'Superbloc' on the way back to the car; result was being psyched out of my tiny mind. Hopefully this week will bring some cold days.
Headed up to Gardoms North to try 'Full Power'. A little damp but we both did pretty well, eventually figuring out the moves and Ned making a good link through to the stand up! I was too tired though and so decided to save skin and leave it for another day. Will definately be back soon!
When I first saw this problem I thought it looked amazing but pretty scary, anyway before I knew it I was at the last move and actually it didnt feel too scary at all! It is class climbing, a real gem in the peak!
Thought I would try 'Barry Sheene' next. At first it felt desperate; tiny crimp to a hard rock up followed by a nails match and slap. After about 10 goes it was done but so was my skin!!
Looked at 'Superbloc' on the way back to the car; result was being psyched out of my tiny mind. Hopefully this week will bring some cold days.
Headed up to Gardoms North to try 'Full Power'. A little damp but we both did pretty well, eventually figuring out the moves and Ned making a good link through to the stand up! I was too tired though and so decided to save skin and leave it for another day. Will definately be back soon!
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