The Swizzy Story

Well to cut it short rain was the story!! When we got there the weather was perfect; cold, blue skies and sun but that changed after a few days and rain was the case!

Brione Stories:
Had a session at Brione on a problem called 'General Disarray' (8b), which is awesome dynamic climbing, I did all the moves but got tired and sadly never returned to the problem. Another Swiss problem on the list. James dispatched as usual!!

Had two sessions on 'Vecchia Leone' (8b), this is probably the best problem I have ever seen in the flesh and am so psyched to do it. First sess I did all the moves and did the problem from 2 moves in. Came back a couple of days later and was having a mare on it. I couldnt even do the first move!!! Then something clicked and I had 4 goes of getting through the crux for me and holding the next hold for a split second then before blowing off. I did it without the first move to the top but ended up getting tired!! Rain came the next day and that was it. So frustrating but I know I can do it on my next session, whenever that is!!

Chironico Stories:
I did very little climbing here. I tried 'Freak Brothers' cause I had been very close on the last trip, unfortunately after my first go I couldnt get the toe hook to stick, I got pissed off and left it. Did a 7c called Powerstrips which was fun. Watched James on 'From Dirt Grows Flowers' (8c), the boy did good and I reckon after a few more sessions he will do it. The problem climbs amazingly!

On the Last day it started to dry up and we managed to squeeze a few hours of climbing in. Did 'That Goes Left' (8a) and 'No Mystery' (8a+) in damp conditions. Would of done 'Schule des Lebans' (8b) too but it was too dark and my foot blew off.
Rhys and Birkby wanted to try 'Doctor Med Dent' (7b+) and because it is right next to a track we drove the cars up next to it for a headlight ascent. Pretty cool climbing but like everything in Swiss a little soft, Haha!

Back in Englands rain now but psyched for training, 2 months till I go to the States so want to be getting strong!

School Room

Having to attend a training day today was not fun, sitting inside while the weather outside was perfect for grit. Probably the best day we have had this year so far, damn!

Headed up to the School room in the evening with Mr. Bennett, Keen youth, and of course Dobbin was there. Warmed up slowly as it was freezing and decided to see if I could do 'Turd Reich' again and indeed I could (2nd go). Moved on the 'Too Fluffy' and 'School Girl', not really ever tried these two much but I did the crux on 'Too Fluffy' and nearly linked 'School Girl' so was quite pleased. Next time!!!

The other three as usual looked waddage; Dobbin repeated 'Too Fluffy' with ease, Paul did 'Stuey's' first go then dispatched numerous other hard thing whilst James just tried everything but with a 6.5 kilo weight belt on!!

Swiss tomorrow, ca$h back!

Sundays a Holy Day so put that Fo' Fo' Away!

Dont know why I chose this title but thank you to Ludacris anyway! Was psyched for a bit of limestone today but woke up and it was damp so all my motivation evaporated. Went to theWorks to do some power endurance stuff; the purple circuit on the training board, managed it 3 times and fell off just at the end of my 4th effort. Felt quite good though, want to get the pink one done!

Watched some beasts on tv doing the rings at a gymnastics event in Glasgow, this Dutch guy had bi-ceps bigger than his head!!

Fingerboard session this evening at Neds which was cool, managed some good one arm hangs and pull ups on the beams, which i was both surpised and pleased with because my pinch strength is so weak! Both of us pulled some classic gurns!

Swiss is getting closer, cant wait till Wednesday, hopefully a School session tomorrow.

A Real Beasting.

After team training last week i realised that my fitness is not so good and in an attempt to clear this up, I am going to start a speed circuit session once a week. Headed down to the Works with strong and elastic boy, Ned for some campusing and circuits.

After warming up we got on the campus board and quickly realised that neither of us felt amazing but we carried on regardless. Four exercises in the campus routine and repeat this three times with a few minutes rest inbetween. Ended up doing ok really.

We then chose 20 problems for our circuit, with the difficulty ranging from about 6b up to 7b+. The circuit involves trying a problem and then immediately getting on the next, two goes maximum on each problem. I ended up completing 14 of the problems but as ever burnt off by Ned with 18. Its good for me though as I have someone to chase!!

New yellow circuit up so we did some of those, pretty good to, nice one Sam and Percy!

Was going to go and try Darkstar again tomorrow but my skin is thin, so a rest day me thinks. Going to Leeds tomorrow night to set for the comp on friday.

Guplets Wall

Guplets on Toast sitter (V8+)

Headed to Guplets Wall today with Mr. Varian to try a highball, unrepeated (I think) V10 of John Welfords. First impressions when we got there was that it looked nails. Warmed up on an ace problem to the left called Guplets on Toast (V8+). Some nice moves followed by a scary top out, at least for me anyway!!

On to Darkstar and after trying to work the bottom bit we decided that the crux was probably a dynamic move into a mono! After trying this for a while Dan stuck it and proceeded to top out, making it look pretty scary! I hit the mono and held it but slid out. So the crux felt ok you just needed to keep your head for the top.

We then found a slightly easier way of doing the first part but my skin was spent and so I stopped. Dan had a good run through from the bottom but forgot about his feet after the mono, oops!! Definately be coming back to this, it really is so good!

Anyway a few hours rest now and then off to the Dream Machine board with Dan, Ned and maybe Fritz Herman aka Tony! Sweet, psyched for some pulling just hope my skin is too!