Anstonia and Training

I have been heading to Anston Stones (near worksop) recently, the limestone here is magnesium based rather than the more typical calcium based rock that is found in white peak area. The rock is softer but creates much better features and lines than the calcium based stuff.

At the weekend I managed to get the 2nd ascent of an amazing Mike Adams problem called Warriors Peril (8a). This is one of the finest problems that I have ever climbed, it is the full package! About 14 moves in length it involves compression, undercuts, pockets and crimps; bicycles, smears, toe and heel hooks. There is even a bit of spice thrown in at the end just when your really pumped for that added challenge. Earlier in the week I had worked out the moves and had a few burns from the start but fading light meant that I had to return on Sunday. After a brief warm up I decided to try to link the problem as the rest day had not left me feeling rested at all!

My first go I managed to get through to the last move only to catch the final crimp wrong, instead of adjusting it I carried on but not feeling comfortable after the foot movement I dropped off, what an idiot! My next go I got to the same move, feeling much better I knew that I was in, only my heel to rip! As I was holding the cut loose my right hand greased off the crimp leading to a scary fall (cheers Andy for the spot).

Third time lucky I thought or was it to turn into a last moveitis problem, which is the norm for me. I took a long rest, ate some cashews and dispatched with ease (I think) on my next go!! I was relieved but also so pleased to have done such a high quality problem. During the climb I hit all the holds right and had that feeling, that I dont get often enough, I knew if I just concentrated that I would be in.

This was one of last things I wanted to do before heading to the Jura at the end of September and with the others all being a few hours drive away I will mainly be training and working in the upcoming weeks. Yesterday I came up with my own mini Gaskins project on the board at the Works. I am sure he could do it in his sleep but for me each move is close to my crimp and core limit! Very psyched to try and get it done before I go, it always amazes me how chunks of wood can entertain and motivate so much in our sport!!

Hopefully some pictures or even footage to follow if I manage to head back out that way in this tropical weather!