Mutton Busting

Having returned from the Eindhoven World Cup inspired I thought I would take the opportunity to get back out on the lime. A couple of weeks ago I had my first session on a brilliant roof problem in Blackwell Dale. Mutton Busting is the sit start to an amzing 7b of Rupert Davies. Ned the first ascent of this problem last summer and it has seen just 2 ascemts from 'back 2' Varian and Mick Adams.

I knew that all I needed was some slightly cooler conditions to dispatch as last session I did the moves and worked out my sequence. Driving out to the peak it was overcast and a slight breeze was blowing, fingers crossed it would be dry. Upon arrival I warmed up and conditions seemed ok, a couple of damp holds but with chalk they dried up.

The first 2 moves make the problem: Starting with a big heel, a small crimp and pinch, the left hands slap around the lip to a back 3 pod and my index finger sits on a papule of rock. Some tensiony foot moves allow the right hand to slap round the lip into a digonal crack. From here the problem finishes on some slopey pinches and a big throw to the top off a strange side pull.

When Ned origionally did it he gave it a speculative 8a. However Dan and Mick both thought 8a+, to me it felt harder than most 8a's so low end 8a+?! Who knows! Whatever the grade the climbing is phenomenal-very techy yet powerful and dynamic makes for a spicy cocktail. It should be high up on any peak aficionado's list!

This morning I awoke psyched and headed out to Crag X to finish off a problem called 'Bizarre Ride'. I dropped the finishing jug last week due to being a numpty! This is a new problem that my friend Gangle put up about a month ago. It is slightly eliminate but there is not enough roof climbing in the peak and the moves are excellent. It is 4 moves long and requires good tension, dynamism and a bit of luck in getting a frustrating heel to stay put on a spike. After warming up and having a few false starts my skin and body were wearing thin. I pulled on, dispatched the first lock, got the heel to stay and threw out to the good pinch, blindly throwing around the lip I stuck the vulkan crimp, cutting loose I swung my feet back on and didnt drop the jug this time!!

A good couple of days! Am psyched for power endurance training at the Foundry at the moment, hoping it will help me in the BBC's, so I will be heading down there this week as well as fingerboarding and perhaps having a look at Hubble!!

Hopefully some pictures to follow.