I began training again on Monday and to say that I am psyched is an understatement. I did a fingerboard session on Monday evening in the comfort of the new houses cellar. I didnt sweat once, amazing! I only did three different exercises but 5 sets of each and I think they will help a lot, I am gonna try and do this twice a week with maybe a pockets hang session too.
Today I headed to the works with new British Champ Ned; we did a campus session and then tried the yellow circuit. Campusing was good, I have never really done any sustained campus training and am very psyched for it. For the time being I am just doing Simpsons training that is posted on the Moon website. Gonna try and do this 1/2 times a week. The yellow circuit is hard with some real dirt on it, managed about half before pumping out! Fitness is my main area to work on and luckily Ned is always psyched for this so hopefully he can kick my ass in to gear.
I tried a one arm front lever today! Wanna do this before 2009 arrives!
Wednesday, 16 July 2008
Monday, 14 July 2008
BBC's
Yesterday was the British Bouldering Championships in Millhouses Park, Sheffield. I was a bit apprehensive about competing due to my shoulder and so started off very slowly. Unfortunately nearly all the qualifiers seemed to have some sort of right shoulder move on them. After a while I started to pick up a few points and towards the end I was in with a chance of qualifying for the finals. However a few foot slips and the cautious climbing from earlier kept me out. I finished in 10th with 8 going through to the final. I was pleased to have been close with no training and holding back during the comp but also a bit disappointed because I think I could have qualified if I had been a little bit more outgoing. Oh well, next year!!
The finals problems looked good (think they would have suited me). Effort to Shaggy and Tom for representing the Bingly massive in the finals, Stew and Dave both climbed really well but young whipper snapper Ned pipped them both on the last problem, big ups to the boy! He climbed really well and deserved it!
The whole event seemed to go really well so congrats to everyone involved!
The finals problems looked good (think they would have suited me). Effort to Shaggy and Tom for representing the Bingly massive in the finals, Stew and Dave both climbed really well but young whipper snapper Ned pipped them both on the last problem, big ups to the boy! He climbed really well and deserved it!
The whole event seemed to go really well so congrats to everyone involved!
Friday, 11 July 2008
Photographs for your Pleasure!
High Spirit 8a+/b
Left Hand of Darkness 8a+
Voigas 8a+
Frogger 8a (and cobweb)
Sunshine after the RainOne HOT Summer!
Ok here goes; a brief report of a Euro trip- over 3000 miles driving, 7 stops, pastries galore and bit of alcohol thrown in; some snow, some rain, a lot of sun and even a bit of climbing!
After 20 hours driving Ned, Gangle and myself arrive at Susten Pass to snow!! Not such a good start, Ned falls down a hole resulting in snow up to his nipples. After a bimble around we sack it to Chironico for the night, blue skiies greet us and after a huge pizza we have a look around. Next morning equals rain!
Off to Magic!! After a couple of days of rain the sun comes out and never goes away. Temps are perfect for sun bathing and Ned gets burnt (regularly)! He also does some good sending as does Tom. For me this trip was about having fun and trying to get back into it after my shoulder. Gladly I didnt really feel my shoulder at all until a few days from the end, where I slightly tweaked it!
It was also a trip of nearlies for me; if the weather had been slightly cooler I would have definately come away with a few more ticks but they are being saved for colder times. I did however climb 'High Spirit' which was awesome, I came so close last year and didnt even try it this year until the last few days. Tom got interested and found some beta that cut the foot movements from 8 to 4, I wasted a rest day to see if I could do it this way and sure enough it worked. I woke up early the next morning for slightly cooler temps and 2nd go it was done!
We then headed to check out Fionnay, a place which seems to have steered clear of the crowds since Graham was there in 2006. I did a few things there but again should of done more, I got a really bad split which meant I couldnt finish off some climbs, but I will be back. Its a beautiful place and the main cave stays cool even in the baking sun. There are also some very nice blocs in the woods and meadow! I am sure there is plenty of potential in the surrounding area to!
A short stop over in Annecy to see my Dad and swim in the lake and we were off to Montauban for Ned to compete in the World Cup! The boy did good finishing in 23rd, narrowly missing the semi's. Audrey climbed really well and made the semi's. I had never been to a World Cup before and I am gutted that I didnt get the chance to do any this year! It was an amazing experience, and I am so psyched now to train hard and maybe one day get on a podium. The party after was a good laugh, although the car journey the next day wasn't!!
We finished the trip with a few days in Font staying at Neils place. His gite is so nice and the board is quality too, definately a thumbs up from us! I slightly hurt my shoulder and so didnt climb so much. Ned and Tom both did 'Fata Morgana' and Tom dispatched 'Opium'! Effort boys!
As for now; BBC's on Sunday, house moving and work next friday! Then I am starting training again; Campusing, fingerboarding and a bit of fitness. My goals are to climb Vecchia Leone this winter, plus a V12 or higher on lime, grit and sand stone. I want to get back to Wales in August to and up to the County!
After 20 hours driving Ned, Gangle and myself arrive at Susten Pass to snow!! Not such a good start, Ned falls down a hole resulting in snow up to his nipples. After a bimble around we sack it to Chironico for the night, blue skiies greet us and after a huge pizza we have a look around. Next morning equals rain!
Off to Magic!! After a couple of days of rain the sun comes out and never goes away. Temps are perfect for sun bathing and Ned gets burnt (regularly)! He also does some good sending as does Tom. For me this trip was about having fun and trying to get back into it after my shoulder. Gladly I didnt really feel my shoulder at all until a few days from the end, where I slightly tweaked it!
It was also a trip of nearlies for me; if the weather had been slightly cooler I would have definately come away with a few more ticks but they are being saved for colder times. I did however climb 'High Spirit' which was awesome, I came so close last year and didnt even try it this year until the last few days. Tom got interested and found some beta that cut the foot movements from 8 to 4, I wasted a rest day to see if I could do it this way and sure enough it worked. I woke up early the next morning for slightly cooler temps and 2nd go it was done!
We then headed to check out Fionnay, a place which seems to have steered clear of the crowds since Graham was there in 2006. I did a few things there but again should of done more, I got a really bad split which meant I couldnt finish off some climbs, but I will be back. Its a beautiful place and the main cave stays cool even in the baking sun. There are also some very nice blocs in the woods and meadow! I am sure there is plenty of potential in the surrounding area to!
A short stop over in Annecy to see my Dad and swim in the lake and we were off to Montauban for Ned to compete in the World Cup! The boy did good finishing in 23rd, narrowly missing the semi's. Audrey climbed really well and made the semi's. I had never been to a World Cup before and I am gutted that I didnt get the chance to do any this year! It was an amazing experience, and I am so psyched now to train hard and maybe one day get on a podium. The party after was a good laugh, although the car journey the next day wasn't!!
We finished the trip with a few days in Font staying at Neils place. His gite is so nice and the board is quality too, definately a thumbs up from us! I slightly hurt my shoulder and so didnt climb so much. Ned and Tom both did 'Fata Morgana' and Tom dispatched 'Opium'! Effort boys!
As for now; BBC's on Sunday, house moving and work next friday! Then I am starting training again; Campusing, fingerboarding and a bit of fitness. My goals are to climb Vecchia Leone this winter, plus a V12 or higher on lime, grit and sand stone. I want to get back to Wales in August to and up to the County!
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