Hippies, Scallies, Sheep und Climbing!

Headed down to Wales for a few days last friday with strong boys Liam 'Guns Mcgee' Desroy and Tom 'Gangle' Newman. Got down at about half 5 in the evening, bon weather meant we headed straight to the Pass. Quick warm up and after an hour or so and much skin loss (on my behalf) we had all dispatched 'Diesel Power', V11. Nice way to start off the trip, curry time!

Next day we were plagued by on/off rain all day, where do you go when in Wales and it rains?! THE CAVE! I had only been once before and was not particurlarly inspired. After warming up and not being able to pull off the floor on 'Trigger Cut' I got a little moody and promptly announced that I was done! Liam soldiered on with 'Broken Heart' and should of dispatched, sadly his fitness (or lack of) let him down at the end! Tom was getting closer to 'Trigger Cut' so I decided to have another go (good competitive spirit), after managing to pull on the next few moves felt easy! Sadly slapping to the shot hole (the crux) was close but never close enough, next time! Although I wont be returning in a hurry; I think other places in Wales are so much better! Went to check out 'Manchester Dogs' at Angel Bay, Gangle dispatched fast, bon effort!

Back to Liam's for an indoor BBQ then off to the end of week party for the Trad Festival that had been going on that week. This party was quite boring so we left and went to a wedding reception at the Fricsan. This was better; Hippies, Scallies and a DJ wearing a fez all rolled into one room. Sweet! Cider flowed and the dance floor was destroyed, I also got a shoulder massage from Jonny Dawes, Thanks Jonny!

The holy day of Sunday was a rest day, as in all good Christian house holds! We chilled, watched movies of Dai crushing Europe and went to scope out a project roof in the Pass!

Monday we headed to the Pass where Tom et moi dispatched 'Humble Pie', V10! Should of flashed it but a great move and the good thing was that it didnt hurt my shoulder! Tom then crushed 'Lotus', V10 in his usual gangley way! Too long for me at the moment! Elephantitus Cave next; I chilled and Liam did 'Tusk', V10 and got very close to the extension, 'Cross Therapy' before popping his finger! Luckily he didnt think it was too bad and climbed the next day but just on two fingers! Waddage points!
The day of long walk-ins continued and we headed up to Sheep Pen with Nodders and Hocking. I was so psyched for 'Jerry's Problem' as the year before I couldnt even pull off the floor. I flashed the first (crux) move and while deciding what to do my finger went pop!! Not good but it didnt hurt too much. I then proceeded to Drop the jug, get angry, loose skin and become too weak to finish this problem up! Annoying, if I was at full fitness I am sure I would of flashed it or at least definately finished it off. But not to be, next time! Gangle dispatched again, what a day for the young whipper snapper! Also had a quick play on 'The Menace', this felt hard and am very psyched to try this after doing 'Jerry's'. To the pub for a beer!

Last day syndrome=tired bodies, two injured fingers and no skin! Oh well, Caseg boulder time. We managed to do the hardest and one of the best V9's I have done called 'Dont Think Feel'. This revolved around an amazing pinch and a crafty heel. Went to Pete's for a snack then up the pass to finish off the skin. Dispatched 'James Pond' sitter and tried 'Breathe', but didnt have enough beans or skin to finish off!

Very psyched for Wales after this trip (having never spent much time there in the past) and will be down lots over the summer hopefully. Some of the areas are so beautiful and the varitey of rock and climbing is excellent. My tick list has been completed and I am ready for the next trip!

Got a week off now, as I am working on Friday, probably best to rest my finger anyway! Very pleased how good my shoulder felt all weekend. I only had one twinge on the last day!

Hopefully will mange to get some photos and footage from peeps to break up this boring waffle soon!

Update

Just been to see the shoulder specialist, she has given me new, more advanced exercises to do but only once a day, thankfully! Suppose to do these for the next 6 weeks and then cut it down to 2-3 times a week.

She also said that by mid July I should be back to strength and able to start training again, which fits in nicely with my plans!

Trying to get into the Swing of Things!

'Swiss Crisp Mix', V10, Hueco Tanks.

A picture to brighten up this stimulating blog entry of one of the crimpiest (is that a word?) mothers in Hueco!

Have been climbing again for about 3 weeks now and my strength and fitness are slowly coming back. I have no plans to start training properly again till I return from Europe in July.

Have been on limestone a few times and although conditions have been whack I feel strong enough but my puff seems to run out very fast. More fitness needed!

I also put on a rope for the first time the other day. I got close to 'Rattle & Hump' at the Tor but no cigar. Next time hopefully.

My plan is to head to Europe for about a month, visiting Magic, Fionnay and maybe Varazze. Then head over to Montauban for the World Cup round in early July. I am not going to do it but Ned is and I am the designated driver plus there should be a good party after anyway!

In July I am moving into a new house in Crookes with a cellar, Bonus! Gonna get back into hang boarding regularly and start trying to campus twice a week, plus getting out on slimestone as much as possible.

Until then I am just going to enjoy climbing and this sun that seems to have turned up.

Amsterdam on Friday for 3 days as well which should be a blast!