Sunday 12 October 2008

Anston Stones

The Vision, V9

Yesterday a team of us headed over to a limestone bouldering venue near Worksop. Its always good to get to new places especially where there is a wide range of grades and different styles of climbing.

After warming up we got stuck into a V9 called 'Ebola'. This problem was extremely cool and the crux revoled around a dynamic move off a pocket to a side pull. A few goes to suss out the moves and I was at the top, the holds were a bit rough but the climbing thoroughly excellent.

Next up a V9 called 'The Vision', the crux was the first move; pulling off a mono and a back two pocket to slap a left hand sloper. A strange crimp and another mono and I was again at the top.

We then moved on to try a burly roof climb called 'Dark Art'. This involved all areas of climbing from core, fingers and burl to finese and technique. I worked out the moves pretty quickly and was trying the red point. I had one good go and should of held the last hard move but my heel ripped. Had a few other good goes but was tiring fast and the holds seemed to be getting damper! Unfortunately I get finishing off syndrone and this problem is added to the list of blocs I should have ticked but next time hopefully!

I will definately be heading back to the crag at some point but maybe not till next spring now due to seepage!

Off to Paris tomorrow then Font for 3 weeks!!!