Its pretty warm here at the moment and I slightly sprained my wrist the other day so I am having a few rest days. I did my wrist falling off 'Power of Landjager'; arguably the best line at Hueco. I managed the hard swing move but some how got insanely pumped and fluffed the top. My wrist isnt too bad though and I will definitely dispatch next time.
I had a rest day after injuring my wrist and it felt fine to climb on yesterday. I learnt how to do the gaston move on 'Full Monty' and dispatched that which was brilliant. A four star V12 in Hueco, sweet! It is strange though cause as soon as I learnt the movement it felt easy (as always I suppose)! We had a lot of pads with us so we got on 'French Tickler'. The problem climbs a really beautiful, orange wall on crimps and gastons with very few feet. After a few goes of foot slippage I dispatched; as did Adam and Lee. Angie was also very close to the second female ascent. She will definitely dispatch if there is time before she leaves.
Next to the 'Tickler' is a very crimpy problem called 'Swiss Crisp Mix'. I had no real interest in this but seen as we were there I thought I would give it a flash go. After all the difficult climbing I found myself at the top on what everyone said was a jug but felt very much like a sloper to me. Using a very contorted and bunchy sequence I eventually rolled over the top to discover I had over shot the jug! Oops! My second V10 flash; joining the ranks of Ben Moon and Irish Si who Jamie informed me had flashed this problem too!
By the end of the day my wrist had swollen up nicely and I could barely put on my shoes. Today it feels a little better though so fingers crossed!! Unfortunately it means i missed a tour to East Mountain where there a few things I want to try. About three weeks till I head to Bishop, I best get sending!!
Friday, 8 February 2008
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