Rubis....

A Font classic- Rubis Sur longe 7b+
Taken by: Monsieur Fontinberry himself, Andy Jennings

Fontainberry!

C'etait Demain, 8a.

Just returned from Font after my first time in colder conditions. What an amazing place! I cant wait to get back. Not having my own car meant that I just went where everyone else wanted to go. This suited me; I just did classics and lines that took my eye (which was lots)!

Managed to do the first 8a in the forest which was awesome, I actually did it twice it was that good. Apart from that I just did a bunch of good 7's and pottered around, I didnt even see most of the problems I wanted to try but next time....

Am heading back for a month in February so hopefully will get some harder things ticked then. I would love to do the big 4 and there are a few other things I am really keen for, mainly old skool hard problems!

Psyched for some training this week and then heading to work on Friday for the week.

Ticks:

C'etait Demain 8a

Armes d'supplement assis 7c+

Berezina 7c (2nd go)

Alta 7c

L'arrache Coeur 7c

Fourmis Rouge 7c

Infidele 7c

Rubis sur longe 7b+ (2nd go)

Carnage 7b (flash)

Anston Stones

The Vision, V9

Yesterday a team of us headed over to a limestone bouldering venue near Worksop. Its always good to get to new places especially where there is a wide range of grades and different styles of climbing.

After warming up we got stuck into a V9 called 'Ebola'. This problem was extremely cool and the crux revoled around a dynamic move off a pocket to a side pull. A few goes to suss out the moves and I was at the top, the holds were a bit rough but the climbing thoroughly excellent.

Next up a V9 called 'The Vision', the crux was the first move; pulling off a mono and a back two pocket to slap a left hand sloper. A strange crimp and another mono and I was again at the top.

We then moved on to try a burly roof climb called 'Dark Art'. This involved all areas of climbing from core, fingers and burl to finese and technique. I worked out the moves pretty quickly and was trying the red point. I had one good go and should of held the last hard move but my heel ripped. Had a few other good goes but was tiring fast and the holds seemed to be getting damper! Unfortunately I get finishing off syndrone and this problem is added to the list of blocs I should have ticked but next time hopefully!

I will definately be heading back to the crag at some point but maybe not till next spring now due to seepage!

Off to Paris tomorrow then Font for 3 weeks!!!

The Hulk! Raaaaa!

Headed to the crag where the the big green monster resides on Saturday. It was boiling hot but when got down to the rock it felt pretty cool. Unfortunately it was also quite wet. We started to dry holds off and conditions felt ok if a little spoogy. Now I know V10 isnt really much these days but the 'Hulk' has always felt nails to me, far harder than the 'Thing' which stands at V11 so to do it would be awesome.

I have never got anywhere on it before, just pulling on felt hard but today I could pull on and almost static the first move. I was pleased but still didnt think it would go. The second move is definately the crux but I crushed that el static and proceeded on wet holds to the top!! I was extremely psyched! Even on wet holds I felt really strong! As always I had been filming others on the 'Thing' but my unexpected ascent was not recorded. Oh well!

Did a core session yesterday with a British Olympic diver; some good stuff and I do ache a bit today!

Motivation-A very strange thing!

Not got any recent photos so here is one my friend just sent me from Hueco of 'Power of Lanjager', V11.

Not blogged for a while but then havent had much to write really. I havent really been psyched for anything around the Peak so have just been training; lots of core and fingerboarding. I am feeling pretty strong but not so fit!

Went out the other day to show Ned and Mina around Roche Abbey. They both thought the rock quality was brilliant and problems good to. I managed to do 'Addiction', V10 from sitting first go which was cool as i wasnt even going to try it.

After that we headed to try an amazing V11 at a crag near by. It revolves around 2 (very) big moves; I got quite close to both of them but felt very tired very quickly, am psyched to go back as its one of the best problems I have tried for ages and it feels HARD, which is always a bonus!

Got a few weeks left till Paris, unfortunately one of them will be spent at work. Then I am off to Font for 3 weeks!! Woop woop, I have only been in summer so am looking forward to some better conditions hopefully! Then am going out to Swiss for 3 weeks, I cant wait!!

5 Days On!!

I am going down south this weekend for a family do so I thought I would try and cram a lot into this week, climbing wise at least!

Sunday: I headed out onto the lime, conditions were very hot and pretty rubbish, managed a few ticks and a few splits!
Monday: I fingerboarded, and enjoyed this very much although my skin did not. I had personal bests on my frenchie sets.
Tuesday: Campused; Although I felt tired I managed 1-4-7 five out of six sets (very good for me)! Did a few eliminates on the comp wall.
Wednesday: Headed over to Manchester to stay with James and Em for the night. We had a quick session at the wall doing most of the harder problems, then enjoyed yummy food (thanks Em) and watched films!
Thursday: Headed out on lime again, what a mistake I should of finger boarded. It was so humid, possibly the worst conditions I have ever climbed in. Then it rained and we got wet!

So a few days of rest and eating nice food; next week I am just training! I was pleased with climbing 5 days on and not feeling too tired on any of the days, maybe I am building up just a small amount of fitness?!

A bit of blurred/dark picture of 'The Fool' (V8+) at Beef Buttress. Dont know why but I like it!

Training, Lime & Training

Started training again and am lovin' it I have to say. Have started campusing (cause I am rubbish at it) and fingerboarding as well as trying to mix up the climbing with indoors and outdoors. Although conditions have been far from perfect I have managed to tick a few problems this last week at some of the more esoteric limestone spots.
Each session has ended up with a split tip and the need to go back and finish off a problem, oh for good conditions!

Here is a video of the 2nd ascent of a brilliant V9 called Alacrity. Its at an undisclosed area for now but all will be revealed soon enough.


Untitled from david mason on Vimeo.

I have also done a few other 9's at a place over near Rotherham. These problems are some of the best that I have done on limestone, showing that our area is far from mined out!! I will try and get some other pictures and video up soon.

In the mean time, I have to let my tip heal and onwards with the training, fingerboarding tomorrow. Woop woop!!

And so it Begins....

I began training again on Monday and to say that I am psyched is an understatement. I did a fingerboard session on Monday evening in the comfort of the new houses cellar. I didnt sweat once, amazing! I only did three different exercises but 5 sets of each and I think they will help a lot, I am gonna try and do this twice a week with maybe a pockets hang session too.

Today I headed to the works with new British Champ Ned; we did a campus session and then tried the yellow circuit. Campusing was good, I have never really done any sustained campus training and am very psyched for it. For the time being I am just doing Simpsons training that is posted on the Moon website. Gonna try and do this 1/2 times a week. The yellow circuit is hard with some real dirt on it, managed about half before pumping out! Fitness is my main area to work on and luckily Ned is always psyched for this so hopefully he can kick my ass in to gear.

I tried a one arm front lever today! Wanna do this before 2009 arrives!

BBC's

Yesterday was the British Bouldering Championships in Millhouses Park, Sheffield. I was a bit apprehensive about competing due to my shoulder and so started off very slowly. Unfortunately nearly all the qualifiers seemed to have some sort of right shoulder move on them. After a while I started to pick up a few points and towards the end I was in with a chance of qualifying for the finals. However a few foot slips and the cautious climbing from earlier kept me out. I finished in 10th with 8 going through to the final. I was pleased to have been close with no training and holding back during the comp but also a bit disappointed because I think I could have qualified if I had been a little bit more outgoing. Oh well, next year!!

The finals problems looked good (think they would have suited me). Effort to Shaggy and Tom for representing the Bingly massive in the finals, Stew and Dave both climbed really well but young whipper snapper Ned pipped them both on the last problem, big ups to the boy! He climbed really well and deserved it!

The whole event seemed to go really well so congrats to everyone involved!

Photographs for your Pleasure!

High Spirit 8a+/b

Left Hand of Darkness 8a+

Voigas 8a+

Frogger 8a (and cobweb)

Sunshine after the Rain

One HOT Summer!

Ok here goes; a brief report of a Euro trip- over 3000 miles driving, 7 stops, pastries galore and bit of alcohol thrown in; some snow, some rain, a lot of sun and even a bit of climbing!

After 20 hours driving Ned, Gangle and myself arrive at Susten Pass to snow!! Not such a good start, Ned falls down a hole resulting in snow up to his nipples. After a bimble around we sack it to Chironico for the night, blue skiies greet us and after a huge pizza we have a look around. Next morning equals rain!

Off to Magic!! After a couple of days of rain the sun comes out and never goes away. Temps are perfect for sun bathing and Ned gets burnt (regularly)! He also does some good sending as does Tom. For me this trip was about having fun and trying to get back into it after my shoulder. Gladly I didnt really feel my shoulder at all until a few days from the end, where I slightly tweaked it!

It was also a trip of nearlies for me; if the weather had been slightly cooler I would have definately come away with a few more ticks but they are being saved for colder times. I did however climb 'High Spirit' which was awesome, I came so close last year and didnt even try it this year until the last few days. Tom got interested and found some beta that cut the foot movements from 8 to 4, I wasted a rest day to see if I could do it this way and sure enough it worked. I woke up early the next morning for slightly cooler temps and 2nd go it was done!

We then headed to check out Fionnay, a place which seems to have steered clear of the crowds since Graham was there in 2006. I did a few things there but again should of done more, I got a really bad split which meant I couldnt finish off some climbs, but I will be back. Its a beautiful place and the main cave stays cool even in the baking sun. There are also some very nice blocs in the woods and meadow! I am sure there is plenty of potential in the surrounding area to!

A short stop over in Annecy to see my Dad and swim in the lake and we were off to Montauban for Ned to compete in the World Cup! The boy did good finishing in 23rd, narrowly missing the semi's. Audrey climbed really well and made the semi's. I had never been to a World Cup before and I am gutted that I didnt get the chance to do any this year! It was an amazing experience, and I am so psyched now to train hard and maybe one day get on a podium. The party after was a good laugh, although the car journey the next day wasn't!!

We finished the trip with a few days in Font staying at Neils place. His gite is so nice and the board is quality too, definately a thumbs up from us! I slightly hurt my shoulder and so didnt climb so much. Ned and Tom both did 'Fata Morgana' and Tom dispatched 'Opium'! Effort boys!

As for now; BBC's on Sunday, house moving and work next friday! Then I am starting training again; Campusing, fingerboarding and a bit of fitness. My goals are to climb Vecchia Leone this winter, plus a V12 or higher on lime, grit and sand stone. I want to get back to Wales in August to and up to the County!

Hippies, Scallies, Sheep und Climbing!

Headed down to Wales for a few days last friday with strong boys Liam 'Guns Mcgee' Desroy and Tom 'Gangle' Newman. Got down at about half 5 in the evening, bon weather meant we headed straight to the Pass. Quick warm up and after an hour or so and much skin loss (on my behalf) we had all dispatched 'Diesel Power', V11. Nice way to start off the trip, curry time!

Next day we were plagued by on/off rain all day, where do you go when in Wales and it rains?! THE CAVE! I had only been once before and was not particurlarly inspired. After warming up and not being able to pull off the floor on 'Trigger Cut' I got a little moody and promptly announced that I was done! Liam soldiered on with 'Broken Heart' and should of dispatched, sadly his fitness (or lack of) let him down at the end! Tom was getting closer to 'Trigger Cut' so I decided to have another go (good competitive spirit), after managing to pull on the next few moves felt easy! Sadly slapping to the shot hole (the crux) was close but never close enough, next time! Although I wont be returning in a hurry; I think other places in Wales are so much better! Went to check out 'Manchester Dogs' at Angel Bay, Gangle dispatched fast, bon effort!

Back to Liam's for an indoor BBQ then off to the end of week party for the Trad Festival that had been going on that week. This party was quite boring so we left and went to a wedding reception at the Fricsan. This was better; Hippies, Scallies and a DJ wearing a fez all rolled into one room. Sweet! Cider flowed and the dance floor was destroyed, I also got a shoulder massage from Jonny Dawes, Thanks Jonny!

The holy day of Sunday was a rest day, as in all good Christian house holds! We chilled, watched movies of Dai crushing Europe and went to scope out a project roof in the Pass!

Monday we headed to the Pass where Tom et moi dispatched 'Humble Pie', V10! Should of flashed it but a great move and the good thing was that it didnt hurt my shoulder! Tom then crushed 'Lotus', V10 in his usual gangley way! Too long for me at the moment! Elephantitus Cave next; I chilled and Liam did 'Tusk', V10 and got very close to the extension, 'Cross Therapy' before popping his finger! Luckily he didnt think it was too bad and climbed the next day but just on two fingers! Waddage points!
The day of long walk-ins continued and we headed up to Sheep Pen with Nodders and Hocking. I was so psyched for 'Jerry's Problem' as the year before I couldnt even pull off the floor. I flashed the first (crux) move and while deciding what to do my finger went pop!! Not good but it didnt hurt too much. I then proceeded to Drop the jug, get angry, loose skin and become too weak to finish this problem up! Annoying, if I was at full fitness I am sure I would of flashed it or at least definately finished it off. But not to be, next time! Gangle dispatched again, what a day for the young whipper snapper! Also had a quick play on 'The Menace', this felt hard and am very psyched to try this after doing 'Jerry's'. To the pub for a beer!

Last day syndrome=tired bodies, two injured fingers and no skin! Oh well, Caseg boulder time. We managed to do the hardest and one of the best V9's I have done called 'Dont Think Feel'. This revolved around an amazing pinch and a crafty heel. Went to Pete's for a snack then up the pass to finish off the skin. Dispatched 'James Pond' sitter and tried 'Breathe', but didnt have enough beans or skin to finish off!

Very psyched for Wales after this trip (having never spent much time there in the past) and will be down lots over the summer hopefully. Some of the areas are so beautiful and the varitey of rock and climbing is excellent. My tick list has been completed and I am ready for the next trip!

Got a week off now, as I am working on Friday, probably best to rest my finger anyway! Very pleased how good my shoulder felt all weekend. I only had one twinge on the last day!

Hopefully will mange to get some photos and footage from peeps to break up this boring waffle soon!

Update

Just been to see the shoulder specialist, she has given me new, more advanced exercises to do but only once a day, thankfully! Suppose to do these for the next 6 weeks and then cut it down to 2-3 times a week.

She also said that by mid July I should be back to strength and able to start training again, which fits in nicely with my plans!

Trying to get into the Swing of Things!

'Swiss Crisp Mix', V10, Hueco Tanks.

A picture to brighten up this stimulating blog entry of one of the crimpiest (is that a word?) mothers in Hueco!

Have been climbing again for about 3 weeks now and my strength and fitness are slowly coming back. I have no plans to start training properly again till I return from Europe in July.

Have been on limestone a few times and although conditions have been whack I feel strong enough but my puff seems to run out very fast. More fitness needed!

I also put on a rope for the first time the other day. I got close to 'Rattle & Hump' at the Tor but no cigar. Next time hopefully.

My plan is to head to Europe for about a month, visiting Magic, Fionnay and maybe Varazze. Then head over to Montauban for the World Cup round in early July. I am not going to do it but Ned is and I am the designated driver plus there should be a good party after anyway!

In July I am moving into a new house in Crookes with a cellar, Bonus! Gonna get back into hang boarding regularly and start trying to campus twice a week, plus getting out on slimestone as much as possible.

Until then I am just going to enjoy climbing and this sun that seems to have turned up.

Amsterdam on Friday for 3 days as well which should be a blast!

First day back, Boom!

Went outdoors today for the first time since I dislocated my shoulder. Headed up to Wharncliffe with Andy B. I hadnt been there before so was just keen to do anything that felt ok on the shoulder.

Started off by warming up on some nice little problems and then went onto 'Kim Span', a V6 that hasnt seen any repeats due to people thinking that you need a large amount of span to top out this bloc. Andy (-2 ape) dispatched 2nd go and I quickly followed. The problem is not that spanny but is great climbing, consider it thoroughly recommended.

After this we headed to the main buttress, Dragons Den. Here I did a few more good problems including a V7 called 'Crouching Tiger'. I also should of done 'Dragon Slayer', a brilliant V7 involving heels, toes and guppys. Unfortunately I fell off the top after failing to see a huge crimp, oops! Was de-pumping and waiting for another go when the heavens opened.

A much better day than I expected, and much more achieved also so I was pretty happy! My strength doesnt seem to have disappeared completely but my fitness is kaput! Oh well sure all will return.

Home for more shoulder exercises. Joy, joy, joy!

Works on Thursday I think.

Almcliff Short

http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/yg/video/almscliff__movie.mov

A short film with problems from Almscliff by Nige Poustie.

No Mystery Video

Untitled from david mason on Vimeo.

Here is a video of No Mystery (8a/+) from my trip to Switzerland in November. I did this on my last day there after a friend dried out the holds with toilet paper!

My shoulder is getting better; I am doing lots of rehab and trying to improve my core strength while I cant do any climbing. I saw the physio last night and fingers crossed I can start climbing again in about 3 weeks. Hoping to have time to get semi fit for Magic Wood in mid June. I will just have to pick my problems carefully!

A few more pics!

The Full Monty (crux move)

The Full Monty

Topping out the Tickler

Gutted!!

Dislocated my right shoulder the other day, so am heading back to the UK on Wednesday! Am really gutted!

Scream!!!

A few pictures of 'Scream' taken by Adam Lincoln. Notice the left hand volkan! Nice!

A Good Day!

Power of Landjager

Its pretty warm here at the moment and I slightly sprained my wrist the other day so I am having a few rest days. I did my wrist falling off 'Power of Landjager'; arguably the best line at Hueco. I managed the hard swing move but some how got insanely pumped and fluffed the top. My wrist isnt too bad though and I will definitely dispatch next time.

I had a rest day after injuring my wrist and it felt fine to climb on yesterday. I learnt how to do the gaston move on 'Full Monty' and dispatched that which was brilliant. A four star V12 in Hueco, sweet! It is strange though cause as soon as I learnt the movement it felt easy (as always I suppose)! We had a lot of pads with us so we got on 'French Tickler'. The problem climbs a really beautiful, orange wall on crimps and gastons with very few feet. After a few goes of foot slippage I dispatched; as did Adam and Lee. Angie was also very close to the second female ascent. She will definitely dispatch if there is time before she leaves.

Next to the 'Tickler' is a very crimpy problem called 'Swiss Crisp Mix'. I had no real interest in this but seen as we were there I thought I would give it a flash go. After all the difficult climbing I found myself at the top on what everyone said was a jug but felt very much like a sloper to me. Using a very contorted and bunchy sequence I eventually rolled over the top to discover I had over shot the jug! Oops! My second V10 flash; joining the ranks of Ben Moon and Irish Si who Jamie informed me had flashed this problem too!

By the end of the day my wrist had swollen up nicely and I could barely put on my shoes. Today it feels a little better though so fingers crossed!! Unfortunately it means i missed a tour to East Mountain where there a few things I want to try. About three weeks till I head to Bishop, I best get sending!!

Super Bowl Sunday!

The Flame, V11.

Rest day today, so its super bowl watching day! Had a good session on 'Full Monty' the other day and probably should of done it! This is one of hardest 12s I have seen and definitely one of the best lines in Hueco. Next time!!

Had another good day yesterday on East Mountain. Flashed a cool V9 called 'Man Gum' and did a seldom repeated highball V10 called 'Whispers of Mortality'. Two hard roof moves, followed by a big rose move at the lip and then a high crimpy wall climb. I was hanging on for dear life on the wall and bruised my tips (hopefully going to repeat it and get it on film).

One of the best lines I have seen in Hueco and very stiff for the grade. This will make the Brits happy as most people think Hueco is soft! In my opinion it is the same as everywhere; some hard, some standard and some soft for the grade!

Off to the bar!!

Getting Better! Slightly!

Well been here a few more days now and I am starting to get it together a bit more. My friend Adam arrived on Tuesday which is good, a fellow Brit to represent. Had one of my best days of climbing yesterday on West Mountain, which has some real gems on it.

Flashed a cool V9 called 'Shroom', then did '1969' a very atypical problem of Hueco; slopers and compression up a vertical wall. Moved on next to 'Best of the Best' which is an amazing but very long problem. Kevin and Adam got quite close. Too long for me!

Next went to a problem called 'Eckagrata' involving two finger pockets and a cool dyno. Finished the day on 'Scream', one of the best lines in Hueco (in my opinion), very grit like, revolving around a left-hand switch from a sloper to a gaston!

East Spur tomorrow, going to start working 'Full Monty'!!

Hueco Tanks

I have been here for about a week now and so far I havent climbed without tape on my fingers!! This place is sharp! It also takes getting used to but am just coming to terms with it. Met lots of cool people and even landed myself a camper to stay in, sweet, especially when the wind gets up! Everyone is super friendly, even with my constant abuse!

The climbing is pretty cool and have just been scoping stuff out really as I adjust to the crimpiness of the climbing. I have got close to lots but not sent so much yet. Did 'The Flame' the other day which is cool looking prow, although a bit boxed, in the rock is really nice. Fell off yesterday with my hand on the finishing jug of 'Power of Silence' which was a bit disappointing but it seems to be a lot of peoples bogey problem! Its an amazing line and definately hard for the grade! Hopefully will do some more dispatching soon, as I feel close to quite a few things.

Off to see 'Slashface' tomorrow which I am very psyched for!

Other than that I am trying to teach these yanks a thing or two about the English language and they seem intent on taking the piss out of my accent!

Hopefully a few photos soon depending on how quickly my friend gets his ass in to gear.

Curbaaaaar!

Play Hard, 7c.

Lots of rain last night, so I assumed everywhere would be wet but how wrong I was. Warmed up on the trackside boulder and Ben persuaded me to have a few goes on 'Play Hard'. Not great to look at but moves that are tres bon. Actually ended up doing it twice. 'Work Hard' next time if I have the lank.

Moved on to 'Great White' next, I had tried this the other day with Jon Boy but couldnt hold the last pocket. After about 10 goes it was looking like that would be the case again but I pulled something out the bag. This problem is amazing and I think everyone should go and do it!!!

Wanted to do 'Hurricane' too so headed up as the sun was sinking. I kept hitting the top fully but couldnt hold it (dont ask me why), fatigue was catching up with me and so was the light. Ah well next time for that little bugger!

Great day but no skin now!!

A Random Pic!!

Made in Norway (7b), Chironico

A random picture from Swiss in April. Taken by Simon Richardson of Dark Peak Images.