Taken by Ben Pritchard
Thursday, 20 August 2009
Outdoors and Getting Stronger
So as the title says I have been trying to juggle the two. How successfully I am doing this who knows, I do feel quite strong and I am managing to get up some things. Had a brilliant time up in northumberland and the lakes with Ned, Dan, Tom and Katy. We visited some fine, fine sandstone, took a trip to the seaside and pulled hard on the giant Bowder pebble. The trip was very laid back with hot weather and huge amounts of food consumed!! Definately heading back up there at some point before we depart for the Jura.
So the Jura is getting closer, only 6 weeks. I am trying to earn as much money as possible while training hard. I have mainly been using the board at the works- trying projects and then getting in some mileage on more familar problems. I love the board, how hard you have to try to scrape your way to the top and how completely fatigued you feel by the end of a session!!
Today I decided to go on the campus board. Now this is something that I do very rarely. Dont ask me why but campusing is a form of training that I have never really participated in. So it was to my great surprise when I managed to float up 1-5-8 on both sides and get close(ish) to 1-5-9 when leading with my right arm!! I then did some power endurance which was my real reason for going on the campus board. I remember Andy Earl once showing us a routine he used to do. I set my sights on this and got shut down, excellent, something to really get my teeth into. Basically it involves doing 1-4-6 on both arms followed straight away by 1-4-7 and then 1-5-8!! I did this 3 times and could barely get past 5 at the end!!
Everytime I campus I remember how much I love the feeling and motion of it. I will definately be doing some more before we head off but the board is the real focus, I feel this can yield the biggest gains in shortest amount of time.
I have recently been thinking about lifetime climbing goals, here is what I have come up with:
We will see what the future holds, for now its back to the juggling...
So the Jura is getting closer, only 6 weeks. I am trying to earn as much money as possible while training hard. I have mainly been using the board at the works- trying projects and then getting in some mileage on more familar problems. I love the board, how hard you have to try to scrape your way to the top and how completely fatigued you feel by the end of a session!!
Today I decided to go on the campus board. Now this is something that I do very rarely. Dont ask me why but campusing is a form of training that I have never really participated in. So it was to my great surprise when I managed to float up 1-5-8 on both sides and get close(ish) to 1-5-9 when leading with my right arm!! I then did some power endurance which was my real reason for going on the campus board. I remember Andy Earl once showing us a routine he used to do. I set my sights on this and got shut down, excellent, something to really get my teeth into. Basically it involves doing 1-4-6 on both arms followed straight away by 1-4-7 and then 1-5-8!! I did this 3 times and could barely get past 5 at the end!!
Everytime I campus I remember how much I love the feeling and motion of it. I will definately be doing some more before we head off but the board is the real focus, I feel this can yield the biggest gains in shortest amount of time.
I have recently been thinking about lifetime climbing goals, here is what I have come up with:
- Climb Hubble (I tried this in the blazing heat last week. More strength is definately needed and this is a winter aim with the idea of completing this next summer).
- 1-5-9 on both arms.
- Climb consistently hard problems wherever I go and on varying rock types
- Stand on the podium at a world cup round
- Climb 8B+ boulder
We will see what the future holds, for now its back to the juggling...
Darkside of the Moon
One of the best problems I have done. Darkside of the Moon at St.Bees is perfect, if it only it were taller!
Sunday, 21 June 2009
Mutton Busting
Having returned from the Eindhoven World Cup inspired I thought I would take the opportunity to get back out on the lime. A couple of weeks ago I had my first session on a brilliant roof problem in Blackwell Dale. Mutton Busting is the sit start to an amzing 7b of Rupert Davies. Ned the first ascent of this problem last summer and it has seen just 2 ascemts from 'back 2' Varian and Mick Adams.
I knew that all I needed was some slightly cooler conditions to dispatch as last session I did the moves and worked out my sequence. Driving out to the peak it was overcast and a slight breeze was blowing, fingers crossed it would be dry. Upon arrival I warmed up and conditions seemed ok, a couple of damp holds but with chalk they dried up.
The first 2 moves make the problem: Starting with a big heel, a small crimp and pinch, the left hands slap around the lip to a back 3 pod and my index finger sits on a papule of rock. Some tensiony foot moves allow the right hand to slap round the lip into a digonal crack. From here the problem finishes on some slopey pinches and a big throw to the top off a strange side pull.
When Ned origionally did it he gave it a speculative 8a. However Dan and Mick both thought 8a+, to me it felt harder than most 8a's so low end 8a+?! Who knows! Whatever the grade the climbing is phenomenal-very techy yet powerful and dynamic makes for a spicy cocktail. It should be high up on any peak aficionado's list!
This morning I awoke psyched and headed out to Crag X to finish off a problem called 'Bizarre Ride'. I dropped the finishing jug last week due to being a numpty! This is a new problem that my friend Gangle put up about a month ago. It is slightly eliminate but there is not enough roof climbing in the peak and the moves are excellent. It is 4 moves long and requires good tension, dynamism and a bit of luck in getting a frustrating heel to stay put on a spike. After warming up and having a few false starts my skin and body were wearing thin. I pulled on, dispatched the first lock, got the heel to stay and threw out to the good pinch, blindly throwing around the lip I stuck the vulkan crimp, cutting loose I swung my feet back on and didnt drop the jug this time!!
A good couple of days! Am psyched for power endurance training at the Foundry at the moment, hoping it will help me in the BBC's, so I will be heading down there this week as well as fingerboarding and perhaps having a look at Hubble!!
Hopefully some pictures to follow.
I knew that all I needed was some slightly cooler conditions to dispatch as last session I did the moves and worked out my sequence. Driving out to the peak it was overcast and a slight breeze was blowing, fingers crossed it would be dry. Upon arrival I warmed up and conditions seemed ok, a couple of damp holds but with chalk they dried up.
The first 2 moves make the problem: Starting with a big heel, a small crimp and pinch, the left hands slap around the lip to a back 3 pod and my index finger sits on a papule of rock. Some tensiony foot moves allow the right hand to slap round the lip into a digonal crack. From here the problem finishes on some slopey pinches and a big throw to the top off a strange side pull.
When Ned origionally did it he gave it a speculative 8a. However Dan and Mick both thought 8a+, to me it felt harder than most 8a's so low end 8a+?! Who knows! Whatever the grade the climbing is phenomenal-very techy yet powerful and dynamic makes for a spicy cocktail. It should be high up on any peak aficionado's list!
This morning I awoke psyched and headed out to Crag X to finish off a problem called 'Bizarre Ride'. I dropped the finishing jug last week due to being a numpty! This is a new problem that my friend Gangle put up about a month ago. It is slightly eliminate but there is not enough roof climbing in the peak and the moves are excellent. It is 4 moves long and requires good tension, dynamism and a bit of luck in getting a frustrating heel to stay put on a spike. After warming up and having a few false starts my skin and body were wearing thin. I pulled on, dispatched the first lock, got the heel to stay and threw out to the good pinch, blindly throwing around the lip I stuck the vulkan crimp, cutting loose I swung my feet back on and didnt drop the jug this time!!
A good couple of days! Am psyched for power endurance training at the Foundry at the moment, hoping it will help me in the BBC's, so I will be heading down there this week as well as fingerboarding and perhaps having a look at Hubble!!
Hopefully some pictures to follow.
Tuesday, 19 May 2009
The Return....
Well its been along time since my last blog, am not sure of the exact reasons. I went through a time of very low psyche and didnt feel that spreading the word of this was to necessary. Another reason is that I didnt want to just dribble on. When I look at someones blog I like pictures and videos, and to put it simply I just dont have any at the moment.
Ok so excuses and introduction over and on to the main meat. For the past month I have mainly been climbing outside and fingerboarding. This had been due to a niggling finger injury which for some reason is fine on the lime but on plastic it aint too good. Luckily this is going, unluckily I have another slight tweak which is keeping me away from my love of pockets.
My opinion on most injuries is that you can always climb around them, especailly when fingerboard training. So this is what I am doing. My psyche had returned recently and I feel that my strength has raised itself by about half a level! Its a start...
Have had quite a few good ticks recently and obviously with this comes a further raise in your psyche.
Got a world cup round in Eindhoven in a month so my fitness needs to be increased big time. Gonna mix this in with fingerboading and getting out as much as the damn rain allow. As for more long term plans: I want to do Superman using the sidepull (feels hard), a summer of training and climbing around the UK in spots I havent visited before, then off to the Frankenjura in October and hopefully Font after Christmas.
Fingers crossed the injuries go and my psyche returns (hopefully Lanny Bassham will help, if it worked for Jerry then its worth a shot)!
Ok so excuses and introduction over and on to the main meat. For the past month I have mainly been climbing outside and fingerboarding. This had been due to a niggling finger injury which for some reason is fine on the lime but on plastic it aint too good. Luckily this is going, unluckily I have another slight tweak which is keeping me away from my love of pockets.
My opinion on most injuries is that you can always climb around them, especailly when fingerboard training. So this is what I am doing. My psyche had returned recently and I feel that my strength has raised itself by about half a level! Its a start...
Have had quite a few good ticks recently and obviously with this comes a further raise in your psyche.
Got a world cup round in Eindhoven in a month so my fitness needs to be increased big time. Gonna mix this in with fingerboading and getting out as much as the damn rain allow. As for more long term plans: I want to do Superman using the sidepull (feels hard), a summer of training and climbing around the UK in spots I havent visited before, then off to the Frankenjura in October and hopefully Font after Christmas.
Fingers crossed the injuries go and my psyche returns (hopefully Lanny Bassham will help, if it worked for Jerry then its worth a shot)!
Tuesday, 18 November 2008
Sunday, 2 November 2008
Fontainberry!
C'etait Demain, 8a.Just returned from Font after my first time in colder conditions. What an amazing place! I cant wait to get back. Not having my own car meant that I just went where everyone else wanted to go. This suited me; I just did classics and lines that took my eye (which was lots)!
Managed to do the first 8a in the forest which was awesome, I actually did it twice it was that good. Apart from that I just did a bunch of good 7's and pottered around, I didnt even see most of the problems I wanted to try but next time....
Am heading back for a month in February so hopefully will get some harder things ticked then. I would love to do the big 4 and there are a few other things I am really keen for, mainly old skool hard problems!
Psyched for some training this week and then heading to work on Friday for the week.
Ticks:
C'etait Demain 8a
Armes d'supplement assis 7c+
Berezina 7c (2nd go)
Alta 7c
L'arrache Coeur 7c
Fourmis Rouge 7c
Infidele 7c
Rubis sur longe 7b+ (2nd go)
Carnage 7b (flash)
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