Rubis....

A Font classic- Rubis Sur longe 7b+
Taken by: Monsieur Fontinberry himself, Andy Jennings

Fontainberry!

C'etait Demain, 8a.

Just returned from Font after my first time in colder conditions. What an amazing place! I cant wait to get back. Not having my own car meant that I just went where everyone else wanted to go. This suited me; I just did classics and lines that took my eye (which was lots)!

Managed to do the first 8a in the forest which was awesome, I actually did it twice it was that good. Apart from that I just did a bunch of good 7's and pottered around, I didnt even see most of the problems I wanted to try but next time....

Am heading back for a month in February so hopefully will get some harder things ticked then. I would love to do the big 4 and there are a few other things I am really keen for, mainly old skool hard problems!

Psyched for some training this week and then heading to work on Friday for the week.

Ticks:

C'etait Demain 8a

Armes d'supplement assis 7c+

Berezina 7c (2nd go)

Alta 7c

L'arrache Coeur 7c

Fourmis Rouge 7c

Infidele 7c

Rubis sur longe 7b+ (2nd go)

Carnage 7b (flash)

Anston Stones

The Vision, V9

Yesterday a team of us headed over to a limestone bouldering venue near Worksop. Its always good to get to new places especially where there is a wide range of grades and different styles of climbing.

After warming up we got stuck into a V9 called 'Ebola'. This problem was extremely cool and the crux revoled around a dynamic move off a pocket to a side pull. A few goes to suss out the moves and I was at the top, the holds were a bit rough but the climbing thoroughly excellent.

Next up a V9 called 'The Vision', the crux was the first move; pulling off a mono and a back two pocket to slap a left hand sloper. A strange crimp and another mono and I was again at the top.

We then moved on to try a burly roof climb called 'Dark Art'. This involved all areas of climbing from core, fingers and burl to finese and technique. I worked out the moves pretty quickly and was trying the red point. I had one good go and should of held the last hard move but my heel ripped. Had a few other good goes but was tiring fast and the holds seemed to be getting damper! Unfortunately I get finishing off syndrone and this problem is added to the list of blocs I should have ticked but next time hopefully!

I will definately be heading back to the crag at some point but maybe not till next spring now due to seepage!

Off to Paris tomorrow then Font for 3 weeks!!!

The Hulk! Raaaaa!

Headed to the crag where the the big green monster resides on Saturday. It was boiling hot but when got down to the rock it felt pretty cool. Unfortunately it was also quite wet. We started to dry holds off and conditions felt ok if a little spoogy. Now I know V10 isnt really much these days but the 'Hulk' has always felt nails to me, far harder than the 'Thing' which stands at V11 so to do it would be awesome.

I have never got anywhere on it before, just pulling on felt hard but today I could pull on and almost static the first move. I was pleased but still didnt think it would go. The second move is definately the crux but I crushed that el static and proceeded on wet holds to the top!! I was extremely psyched! Even on wet holds I felt really strong! As always I had been filming others on the 'Thing' but my unexpected ascent was not recorded. Oh well!

Did a core session yesterday with a British Olympic diver; some good stuff and I do ache a bit today!

Motivation-A very strange thing!

Not got any recent photos so here is one my friend just sent me from Hueco of 'Power of Lanjager', V11.

Not blogged for a while but then havent had much to write really. I havent really been psyched for anything around the Peak so have just been training; lots of core and fingerboarding. I am feeling pretty strong but not so fit!

Went out the other day to show Ned and Mina around Roche Abbey. They both thought the rock quality was brilliant and problems good to. I managed to do 'Addiction', V10 from sitting first go which was cool as i wasnt even going to try it.

After that we headed to try an amazing V11 at a crag near by. It revolves around 2 (very) big moves; I got quite close to both of them but felt very tired very quickly, am psyched to go back as its one of the best problems I have tried for ages and it feels HARD, which is always a bonus!

Got a few weeks left till Paris, unfortunately one of them will be spent at work. Then I am off to Font for 3 weeks!! Woop woop, I have only been in summer so am looking forward to some better conditions hopefully! Then am going out to Swiss for 3 weeks, I cant wait!!

5 Days On!!

I am going down south this weekend for a family do so I thought I would try and cram a lot into this week, climbing wise at least!

Sunday: I headed out onto the lime, conditions were very hot and pretty rubbish, managed a few ticks and a few splits!
Monday: I fingerboarded, and enjoyed this very much although my skin did not. I had personal bests on my frenchie sets.
Tuesday: Campused; Although I felt tired I managed 1-4-7 five out of six sets (very good for me)! Did a few eliminates on the comp wall.
Wednesday: Headed over to Manchester to stay with James and Em for the night. We had a quick session at the wall doing most of the harder problems, then enjoyed yummy food (thanks Em) and watched films!
Thursday: Headed out on lime again, what a mistake I should of finger boarded. It was so humid, possibly the worst conditions I have ever climbed in. Then it rained and we got wet!

So a few days of rest and eating nice food; next week I am just training! I was pleased with climbing 5 days on and not feeling too tired on any of the days, maybe I am building up just a small amount of fitness?!

A bit of blurred/dark picture of 'The Fool' (V8+) at Beef Buttress. Dont know why but I like it!

Training, Lime & Training

Started training again and am lovin' it I have to say. Have started campusing (cause I am rubbish at it) and fingerboarding as well as trying to mix up the climbing with indoors and outdoors. Although conditions have been far from perfect I have managed to tick a few problems this last week at some of the more esoteric limestone spots.
Each session has ended up with a split tip and the need to go back and finish off a problem, oh for good conditions!

Here is a video of the 2nd ascent of a brilliant V9 called Alacrity. Its at an undisclosed area for now but all will be revealed soon enough.


Untitled from david mason on Vimeo.

I have also done a few other 9's at a place over near Rotherham. These problems are some of the best that I have done on limestone, showing that our area is far from mined out!! I will try and get some other pictures and video up soon.

In the mean time, I have to let my tip heal and onwards with the training, fingerboarding tomorrow. Woop woop!!