I began training again on Monday and to say that I am psyched is an understatement. I did a fingerboard session on Monday evening in the comfort of the new houses cellar. I didnt sweat once, amazing! I only did three different exercises but 5 sets of each and I think they will help a lot, I am gonna try and do this twice a week with maybe a pockets hang session too.
Today I headed to the works with new British Champ Ned; we did a campus session and then tried the yellow circuit. Campusing was good, I have never really done any sustained campus training and am very psyched for it. For the time being I am just doing Simpsons training that is posted on the Moon website. Gonna try and do this 1/2 times a week. The yellow circuit is hard with some real dirt on it, managed about half before pumping out! Fitness is my main area to work on and luckily Ned is always psyched for this so hopefully he can kick my ass in to gear.
I tried a one arm front lever today! Wanna do this before 2009 arrives!
Wednesday, 16 July 2008
Monday, 14 July 2008
BBC's
Yesterday was the British Bouldering Championships in Millhouses Park, Sheffield. I was a bit apprehensive about competing due to my shoulder and so started off very slowly. Unfortunately nearly all the qualifiers seemed to have some sort of right shoulder move on them. After a while I started to pick up a few points and towards the end I was in with a chance of qualifying for the finals. However a few foot slips and the cautious climbing from earlier kept me out. I finished in 10th with 8 going through to the final. I was pleased to have been close with no training and holding back during the comp but also a bit disappointed because I think I could have qualified if I had been a little bit more outgoing. Oh well, next year!!
The finals problems looked good (think they would have suited me). Effort to Shaggy and Tom for representing the Bingly massive in the finals, Stew and Dave both climbed really well but young whipper snapper Ned pipped them both on the last problem, big ups to the boy! He climbed really well and deserved it!
The whole event seemed to go really well so congrats to everyone involved!
The finals problems looked good (think they would have suited me). Effort to Shaggy and Tom for representing the Bingly massive in the finals, Stew and Dave both climbed really well but young whipper snapper Ned pipped them both on the last problem, big ups to the boy! He climbed really well and deserved it!
The whole event seemed to go really well so congrats to everyone involved!
Friday, 11 July 2008
Photographs for your Pleasure!
High Spirit 8a+/b
Left Hand of Darkness 8a+
Voigas 8a+
Frogger 8a (and cobweb)
Sunshine after the RainOne HOT Summer!
Ok here goes; a brief report of a Euro trip- over 3000 miles driving, 7 stops, pastries galore and bit of alcohol thrown in; some snow, some rain, a lot of sun and even a bit of climbing!
After 20 hours driving Ned, Gangle and myself arrive at Susten Pass to snow!! Not such a good start, Ned falls down a hole resulting in snow up to his nipples. After a bimble around we sack it to Chironico for the night, blue skiies greet us and after a huge pizza we have a look around. Next morning equals rain!
Off to Magic!! After a couple of days of rain the sun comes out and never goes away. Temps are perfect for sun bathing and Ned gets burnt (regularly)! He also does some good sending as does Tom. For me this trip was about having fun and trying to get back into it after my shoulder. Gladly I didnt really feel my shoulder at all until a few days from the end, where I slightly tweaked it!
It was also a trip of nearlies for me; if the weather had been slightly cooler I would have definately come away with a few more ticks but they are being saved for colder times. I did however climb 'High Spirit' which was awesome, I came so close last year and didnt even try it this year until the last few days. Tom got interested and found some beta that cut the foot movements from 8 to 4, I wasted a rest day to see if I could do it this way and sure enough it worked. I woke up early the next morning for slightly cooler temps and 2nd go it was done!
We then headed to check out Fionnay, a place which seems to have steered clear of the crowds since Graham was there in 2006. I did a few things there but again should of done more, I got a really bad split which meant I couldnt finish off some climbs, but I will be back. Its a beautiful place and the main cave stays cool even in the baking sun. There are also some very nice blocs in the woods and meadow! I am sure there is plenty of potential in the surrounding area to!
A short stop over in Annecy to see my Dad and swim in the lake and we were off to Montauban for Ned to compete in the World Cup! The boy did good finishing in 23rd, narrowly missing the semi's. Audrey climbed really well and made the semi's. I had never been to a World Cup before and I am gutted that I didnt get the chance to do any this year! It was an amazing experience, and I am so psyched now to train hard and maybe one day get on a podium. The party after was a good laugh, although the car journey the next day wasn't!!
We finished the trip with a few days in Font staying at Neils place. His gite is so nice and the board is quality too, definately a thumbs up from us! I slightly hurt my shoulder and so didnt climb so much. Ned and Tom both did 'Fata Morgana' and Tom dispatched 'Opium'! Effort boys!
As for now; BBC's on Sunday, house moving and work next friday! Then I am starting training again; Campusing, fingerboarding and a bit of fitness. My goals are to climb Vecchia Leone this winter, plus a V12 or higher on lime, grit and sand stone. I want to get back to Wales in August to and up to the County!
After 20 hours driving Ned, Gangle and myself arrive at Susten Pass to snow!! Not such a good start, Ned falls down a hole resulting in snow up to his nipples. After a bimble around we sack it to Chironico for the night, blue skiies greet us and after a huge pizza we have a look around. Next morning equals rain!
Off to Magic!! After a couple of days of rain the sun comes out and never goes away. Temps are perfect for sun bathing and Ned gets burnt (regularly)! He also does some good sending as does Tom. For me this trip was about having fun and trying to get back into it after my shoulder. Gladly I didnt really feel my shoulder at all until a few days from the end, where I slightly tweaked it!
It was also a trip of nearlies for me; if the weather had been slightly cooler I would have definately come away with a few more ticks but they are being saved for colder times. I did however climb 'High Spirit' which was awesome, I came so close last year and didnt even try it this year until the last few days. Tom got interested and found some beta that cut the foot movements from 8 to 4, I wasted a rest day to see if I could do it this way and sure enough it worked. I woke up early the next morning for slightly cooler temps and 2nd go it was done!
We then headed to check out Fionnay, a place which seems to have steered clear of the crowds since Graham was there in 2006. I did a few things there but again should of done more, I got a really bad split which meant I couldnt finish off some climbs, but I will be back. Its a beautiful place and the main cave stays cool even in the baking sun. There are also some very nice blocs in the woods and meadow! I am sure there is plenty of potential in the surrounding area to!
A short stop over in Annecy to see my Dad and swim in the lake and we were off to Montauban for Ned to compete in the World Cup! The boy did good finishing in 23rd, narrowly missing the semi's. Audrey climbed really well and made the semi's. I had never been to a World Cup before and I am gutted that I didnt get the chance to do any this year! It was an amazing experience, and I am so psyched now to train hard and maybe one day get on a podium. The party after was a good laugh, although the car journey the next day wasn't!!
We finished the trip with a few days in Font staying at Neils place. His gite is so nice and the board is quality too, definately a thumbs up from us! I slightly hurt my shoulder and so didnt climb so much. Ned and Tom both did 'Fata Morgana' and Tom dispatched 'Opium'! Effort boys!
As for now; BBC's on Sunday, house moving and work next friday! Then I am starting training again; Campusing, fingerboarding and a bit of fitness. My goals are to climb Vecchia Leone this winter, plus a V12 or higher on lime, grit and sand stone. I want to get back to Wales in August to and up to the County!
Wednesday, 21 May 2008
Hippies, Scallies, Sheep und Climbing!
Headed down to Wales for a few days last friday with strong boys Liam 'Guns Mcgee' Desroy and Tom 'Gangle' Newman. Got down at about half 5 in the evening, bon weather meant we headed straight to the Pass. Quick warm up and after an hour or so and much skin loss (on my behalf) we had all dispatched 'Diesel Power', V11. Nice way to start off the trip, curry time!
Next day we were plagued by on/off rain all day, where do you go when in Wales and it rains?! THE CAVE! I had only been once before and was not particurlarly inspired. After warming up and not being able to pull off the floor on 'Trigger Cut' I got a little moody and promptly announced that I was done! Liam soldiered on with 'Broken Heart' and should of dispatched, sadly his fitness (or lack of) let him down at the end! Tom was getting closer to 'Trigger Cut' so I decided to have another go (good competitive spirit), after managing to pull on the next few moves felt easy! Sadly slapping to the shot hole (the crux) was close but never close enough, next time! Although I wont be returning in a hurry; I think other places in Wales are so much better! Went to check out 'Manchester Dogs' at Angel Bay, Gangle dispatched fast, bon effort!
Back to Liam's for an indoor BBQ then off to the end of week party for the Trad Festival that had been going on that week. This party was quite boring so we left and went to a wedding reception at the Fricsan. This was better; Hippies, Scallies and a DJ wearing a fez all rolled into one room. Sweet! Cider flowed and the dance floor was destroyed, I also got a shoulder massage from Jonny Dawes, Thanks Jonny!
The holy day of Sunday was a rest day, as in all good Christian house holds! We chilled, watched movies of Dai crushing Europe and went to scope out a project roof in the Pass!
Monday we headed to the Pass where Tom et moi dispatched 'Humble Pie', V10! Should of flashed it but a great move and the good thing was that it didnt hurt my shoulder! Tom then crushed 'Lotus', V10 in his usual gangley way! Too long for me at the moment! Elephantitus Cave next; I chilled and Liam did 'Tusk', V10 and got very close to the extension, 'Cross Therapy' before popping his finger! Luckily he didnt think it was too bad and climbed the next day but just on two fingers! Waddage points!
The day of long walk-ins continued and we headed up to Sheep Pen with Nodders and Hocking. I was so psyched for 'Jerry's Problem' as the year before I couldnt even pull off the floor. I flashed the first (crux) move and while deciding what to do my finger went pop!! Not good but it didnt hurt too much. I then proceeded to Drop the jug, get angry, loose skin and become too weak to finish this problem up! Annoying, if I was at full fitness I am sure I would of flashed it or at least definately finished it off. But not to be, next time! Gangle dispatched again, what a day for the young whipper snapper! Also had a quick play on 'The Menace', this felt hard and am very psyched to try this after doing 'Jerry's'. To the pub for a beer!
Last day syndrome=tired bodies, two injured fingers and no skin! Oh well, Caseg boulder time. We managed to do the hardest and one of the best V9's I have done called 'Dont Think Feel'. This revolved around an amazing pinch and a crafty heel. Went to Pete's for a snack then up the pass to finish off the skin. Dispatched 'James Pond' sitter and tried 'Breathe', but didnt have enough beans or skin to finish off!
Very psyched for Wales after this trip (having never spent much time there in the past) and will be down lots over the summer hopefully. Some of the areas are so beautiful and the varitey of rock and climbing is excellent. My tick list has been completed and I am ready for the next trip!
Got a week off now, as I am working on Friday, probably best to rest my finger anyway! Very pleased how good my shoulder felt all weekend. I only had one twinge on the last day!
Hopefully will mange to get some photos and footage from peeps to break up this boring waffle soon!
Next day we were plagued by on/off rain all day, where do you go when in Wales and it rains?! THE CAVE! I had only been once before and was not particurlarly inspired. After warming up and not being able to pull off the floor on 'Trigger Cut' I got a little moody and promptly announced that I was done! Liam soldiered on with 'Broken Heart' and should of dispatched, sadly his fitness (or lack of) let him down at the end! Tom was getting closer to 'Trigger Cut' so I decided to have another go (good competitive spirit), after managing to pull on the next few moves felt easy! Sadly slapping to the shot hole (the crux) was close but never close enough, next time! Although I wont be returning in a hurry; I think other places in Wales are so much better! Went to check out 'Manchester Dogs' at Angel Bay, Gangle dispatched fast, bon effort!
Back to Liam's for an indoor BBQ then off to the end of week party for the Trad Festival that had been going on that week. This party was quite boring so we left and went to a wedding reception at the Fricsan. This was better; Hippies, Scallies and a DJ wearing a fez all rolled into one room. Sweet! Cider flowed and the dance floor was destroyed, I also got a shoulder massage from Jonny Dawes, Thanks Jonny!
The holy day of Sunday was a rest day, as in all good Christian house holds! We chilled, watched movies of Dai crushing Europe and went to scope out a project roof in the Pass!
Monday we headed to the Pass where Tom et moi dispatched 'Humble Pie', V10! Should of flashed it but a great move and the good thing was that it didnt hurt my shoulder! Tom then crushed 'Lotus', V10 in his usual gangley way! Too long for me at the moment! Elephantitus Cave next; I chilled and Liam did 'Tusk', V10 and got very close to the extension, 'Cross Therapy' before popping his finger! Luckily he didnt think it was too bad and climbed the next day but just on two fingers! Waddage points!
The day of long walk-ins continued and we headed up to Sheep Pen with Nodders and Hocking. I was so psyched for 'Jerry's Problem' as the year before I couldnt even pull off the floor. I flashed the first (crux) move and while deciding what to do my finger went pop!! Not good but it didnt hurt too much. I then proceeded to Drop the jug, get angry, loose skin and become too weak to finish this problem up! Annoying, if I was at full fitness I am sure I would of flashed it or at least definately finished it off. But not to be, next time! Gangle dispatched again, what a day for the young whipper snapper! Also had a quick play on 'The Menace', this felt hard and am very psyched to try this after doing 'Jerry's'. To the pub for a beer!
Last day syndrome=tired bodies, two injured fingers and no skin! Oh well, Caseg boulder time. We managed to do the hardest and one of the best V9's I have done called 'Dont Think Feel'. This revolved around an amazing pinch and a crafty heel. Went to Pete's for a snack then up the pass to finish off the skin. Dispatched 'James Pond' sitter and tried 'Breathe', but didnt have enough beans or skin to finish off!
Very psyched for Wales after this trip (having never spent much time there in the past) and will be down lots over the summer hopefully. Some of the areas are so beautiful and the varitey of rock and climbing is excellent. My tick list has been completed and I am ready for the next trip!
Got a week off now, as I am working on Friday, probably best to rest my finger anyway! Very pleased how good my shoulder felt all weekend. I only had one twinge on the last day!
Hopefully will mange to get some photos and footage from peeps to break up this boring waffle soon!
Tuesday, 6 May 2008
Update
Just been to see the shoulder specialist, she has given me new, more advanced exercises to do but only once a day, thankfully! Suppose to do these for the next 6 weeks and then cut it down to 2-3 times a week.
She also said that by mid July I should be back to strength and able to start training again, which fits in nicely with my plans!
She also said that by mid July I should be back to strength and able to start training again, which fits in nicely with my plans!
Monday, 5 May 2008
Trying to get into the Swing of Things!
'Swiss Crisp Mix', V10, Hueco Tanks.A picture to brighten up this stimulating blog entry of one of the crimpiest (is that a word?) mothers in Hueco!
Have been climbing again for about 3 weeks now and my strength and fitness are slowly coming back. I have no plans to start training properly again till I return from Europe in July.
Have been on limestone a few times and although conditions have been whack I feel strong enough but my puff seems to run out very fast. More fitness needed!
I also put on a rope for the first time the other day. I got close to 'Rattle & Hump' at the Tor but no cigar. Next time hopefully.
My plan is to head to Europe for about a month, visiting Magic, Fionnay and maybe Varazze. Then head over to Montauban for the World Cup round in early July. I am not going to do it but Ned is and I am the designated driver plus there should be a good party after anyway!
In July I am moving into a new house in Crookes with a cellar, Bonus! Gonna get back into hang boarding regularly and start trying to campus twice a week, plus getting out on slimestone as much as possible.
Until then I am just going to enjoy climbing and this sun that seems to have turned up.
Amsterdam on Friday for 3 days as well which should be a blast!
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