Innsbrooklyn

A nice starting picture for this post of Ned, Keith and I freezing our bollocks off after a swin under Dolby Digital in the Zillertal!

Me and Ned headed to Innsbruck at the end of September to see Keith. I will keep it brief but Innsbruck is a sweet place to reside! Keith and James apartment is PIMP, the city seems lively and there is lots of good climbing and skiing close by. Perfect! We spent 5 days there mainly eating pizza and sampling some fine ice cream but squeezed in a bit of climbing to at Zillertal and Silvretta.

At zillertal we met up with my friend Emi who had just returned from South Africa. We warmed up and then got straight onto the main event, Incubator. This is an old Jerry project which unfortaunately if often wet. However we lucked out and although it was warm a cool breeze was blowing right by, drying the holds out to a holdable state! I quickly sussed the moves and started some attempts from the bottom, the first move is the hardest move in my opinion but it relies on timing rather than brutal strength. After a few attempts I stuck the move and proceeded to climb the bloc to the top. A very occasion for me to not be a punt and drop the top, although I nearly did as I hadnt been on it!! Very pleased indeed as it was a climb I had always wanted to do.

Incubator, 8B.

Taken by Emi Moosburger

Our next climbing was a day trip to Silvretta, a very beautiful alpine bouldering venue at about 2000 metres. The rock quality here though is not so good, it is sharp and leaves you in tears. However I had one of my best days out climbing, we met up with Stew Watson, Luki and Elias. I managed to climb 3 problems that were graded 8a (one was even a flash) but realistically British Airways and Niviuk are 7c/+ and the Shining more like 7c+/8a. I was made up though especially as the Shining is sooooooo crimpy! We saw Memento and had a brief play but my skin was burning, Stew went back the week after and sent it packing, good effort!! Just as we were packing up the clouds that had started to look menacing decided to unload hale all over us! Nevermind back to Innsbruck for Pizza ans ice cream!

Ned on the Shining, 8A.

Taken by Elias Holzkencht

It was now off to the Frankenjura for Ned and I and back into late night editing mode for Keith.

Anstonia and Training

I have been heading to Anston Stones (near worksop) recently, the limestone here is magnesium based rather than the more typical calcium based rock that is found in white peak area. The rock is softer but creates much better features and lines than the calcium based stuff.

At the weekend I managed to get the 2nd ascent of an amazing Mike Adams problem called Warriors Peril (8a). This is one of the finest problems that I have ever climbed, it is the full package! About 14 moves in length it involves compression, undercuts, pockets and crimps; bicycles, smears, toe and heel hooks. There is even a bit of spice thrown in at the end just when your really pumped for that added challenge. Earlier in the week I had worked out the moves and had a few burns from the start but fading light meant that I had to return on Sunday. After a brief warm up I decided to try to link the problem as the rest day had not left me feeling rested at all!

My first go I managed to get through to the last move only to catch the final crimp wrong, instead of adjusting it I carried on but not feeling comfortable after the foot movement I dropped off, what an idiot! My next go I got to the same move, feeling much better I knew that I was in, only my heel to rip! As I was holding the cut loose my right hand greased off the crimp leading to a scary fall (cheers Andy for the spot).

Third time lucky I thought or was it to turn into a last moveitis problem, which is the norm for me. I took a long rest, ate some cashews and dispatched with ease (I think) on my next go!! I was relieved but also so pleased to have done such a high quality problem. During the climb I hit all the holds right and had that feeling, that I dont get often enough, I knew if I just concentrated that I would be in.

This was one of last things I wanted to do before heading to the Jura at the end of September and with the others all being a few hours drive away I will mainly be training and working in the upcoming weeks. Yesterday I came up with my own mini Gaskins project on the board at the Works. I am sure he could do it in his sleep but for me each move is close to my crimp and core limit! Very psyched to try and get it done before I go, it always amazes me how chunks of wood can entertain and motivate so much in our sport!!

Hopefully some pictures or even footage to follow if I manage to head back out that way in this tropical weather!

Mutton Busting

Taken by Ben Pritchard

Outdoors and Getting Stronger

So as the title says I have been trying to juggle the two. How successfully I am doing this who knows, I do feel quite strong and I am managing to get up some things. Had a brilliant time up in northumberland and the lakes with Ned, Dan, Tom and Katy. We visited some fine, fine sandstone, took a trip to the seaside and pulled hard on the giant Bowder pebble. The trip was very laid back with hot weather and huge amounts of food consumed!! Definately heading back up there at some point before we depart for the Jura.

So the Jura is getting closer, only 6 weeks. I am trying to earn as much money as possible while training hard. I have mainly been using the board at the works- trying projects and then getting in some mileage on more familar problems. I love the board, how hard you have to try to scrape your way to the top and how completely fatigued you feel by the end of a session!!

Today I decided to go on the campus board. Now this is something that I do very rarely. Dont ask me why but campusing is a form of training that I have never really participated in. So it was to my great surprise when I managed to float up 1-5-8 on both sides and get close(ish) to 1-5-9 when leading with my right arm!! I then did some power endurance which was my real reason for going on the campus board. I remember Andy Earl once showing us a routine he used to do. I set my sights on this and got shut down, excellent, something to really get my teeth into. Basically it involves doing 1-4-6 on both arms followed straight away by 1-4-7 and then 1-5-8!! I did this 3 times and could barely get past 5 at the end!!

Everytime I campus I remember how much I love the feeling and motion of it. I will definately be doing some more before we head off but the board is the real focus, I feel this can yield the biggest gains in shortest amount of time.

I have recently been thinking about lifetime climbing goals, here is what I have come up with:

• Climb Hubble (I tried this in the blazing heat last week. More strength is definately needed and this is a winter aim with the idea of completing this next summer).
  
• 1-5-9 on both arms.
• Climb consistently hard problems wherever I go and on varying rock types
• Stand on the podium at a world cup round
• Climb 8B+ boulder
  

I feel all these are very achievable, perhaps with exception to the last one. Unfortunately as much as I love competition climbing I am not sure I have the mental toughness for it, but this in turn is why I want to achieve this goal so much.

We will see what the future holds, for now its back to the juggling...

Darkside of the Moon

One of the best problems I have done. Darkside of the Moon at St.Bees is perfect, if it only it were taller!

Mutton Busting

Having returned from the Eindhoven World Cup inspired I thought I would take the opportunity to get back out on the lime. A couple of weeks ago I had my first session on a brilliant roof problem in Blackwell Dale. Mutton Busting is the sit start to an amzing 7b of Rupert Davies. Ned the first ascent of this problem last summer and it has seen just 2 ascemts from 'back 2' Varian and Mick Adams.

I knew that all I needed was some slightly cooler conditions to dispatch as last session I did the moves and worked out my sequence. Driving out to the peak it was overcast and a slight breeze was blowing, fingers crossed it would be dry. Upon arrival I warmed up and conditions seemed ok, a couple of damp holds but with chalk they dried up.

The first 2 moves make the problem: Starting with a big heel, a small crimp and pinch, the left hands slap around the lip to a back 3 pod and my index finger sits on a papule of rock. Some tensiony foot moves allow the right hand to slap round the lip into a digonal crack. From here the problem finishes on some slopey pinches and a big throw to the top off a strange side pull.

When Ned origionally did it he gave it a speculative 8a. However Dan and Mick both thought 8a+, to me it felt harder than most 8a's so low end 8a+?! Who knows! Whatever the grade the climbing is phenomenal-very techy yet powerful and dynamic makes for a spicy cocktail. It should be high up on any peak aficionado's list!

This morning I awoke psyched and headed out to Crag X to finish off a problem called 'Bizarre Ride'. I dropped the finishing jug last week due to being a numpty! This is a new problem that my friend Gangle put up about a month ago. It is slightly eliminate but there is not enough roof climbing in the peak and the moves are excellent. It is 4 moves long and requires good tension, dynamism and a bit of luck in getting a frustrating heel to stay put on a spike. After warming up and having a few false starts my skin and body were wearing thin. I pulled on, dispatched the first lock, got the heel to stay and threw out to the good pinch, blindly throwing around the lip I stuck the vulkan crimp, cutting loose I swung my feet back on and didnt drop the jug this time!!

A good couple of days! Am psyched for power endurance training at the Foundry at the moment, hoping it will help me in the BBC's, so I will be heading down there this week as well as fingerboarding and perhaps having a look at Hubble!!

Hopefully some pictures to follow.

The Return....

Well its been along time since my last blog, am not sure of the exact reasons. I went through a time of very low psyche and didnt feel that spreading the word of this was to necessary. Another reason is that I didnt want to just dribble on. When I look at someones blog I like pictures and videos, and to put it simply I just dont have any at the moment.

Ok so excuses and introduction over and on to the main meat. For the past month I have mainly been climbing outside and fingerboarding. This had been due to a niggling finger injury which for some reason is fine on the lime but on plastic it aint too good. Luckily this is going, unluckily I have another slight tweak which is keeping me away from my love of pockets.

My opinion on most injuries is that you can always climb around them, especailly when fingerboard training. So this is what I am doing. My psyche had returned recently and I feel that my strength has raised itself by about half a level! Its a start...

Have had quite a few good ticks recently and obviously with this comes a further raise in your psyche.

Got a world cup round in Eindhoven in a month so my fitness needs to be increased big time. Gonna mix this in with fingerboading and getting out as much as the damn rain allow. As for more long term plans: I want to do Superman using the sidepull (feels hard), a summer of training and climbing around the UK in spots I havent visited before, then off to the Frankenjura in October and hopefully Font after Christmas.

Fingers crossed the injuries go and my psyche returns (hopefully Lanny Bassham will help, if it worked for Jerry then its worth a shot)!