The weather has been poor, to say the least and Paxti is a massive beast so I thought I would try training lots and lots, and lots and lots; obviously not to the same intensity as Paxti. It seems to be going quite well and I am enjoying the hard work, my body seems to be realising that my mind is not going to relent and actually climbing quite well! I feel strong and I am hoping that fitness will improve just because my body is not getting much rest!
The past 9 days have involved a mixture of board climbing, fingerboarding, campussing, weights, core, general climbing and shock horror even a few times on the grit!! As long as you keep changing up what your doing the body seems to be able to cope. If the fingers feel tired then weights and core give them a rest etc.
My other inspiration at the moment is Malc, I watched his Pro Tips the other day (yes the one with the subtitles) and since then I have been trying to climb as open and basic as possible. My style is naturally quite flick and jump orientated, so big locks and no gay legs is hard but I am seeing a definite improvement.
I managed a sneaky hour at Almscliff on Saturday before the sun went down. I haven't been there for ages and wanted to see if I still had all the old problems on lock down. The circuit consisted of the Bulb (V10), the Keel (V8), Matts Roof (V9), Dolphin Belly Slap (V6) and Demon Wall Roof (V7). The last two were climbed in the dark and it felt nice to still be able to complete these boulders with some ease.
I also witnessed Tom Peckitt (the boy is a beast) make the 5th ascent of Cherry Falls, a very hard 8a+ put up by Clifford aeons ago. The Problem is very cool and basic for grit but it revolves around a very sharp crimp, I would like to put some time into it but not sure my skin will agree or my wallet (petrol what a bitch)!
Yesterday I awoke to blue skies and sun. Although I wanted to train I headed out for a session at Burbage North. I am quite content to just get out on the grit at the moment and tick through some things I should have done. Also the main focus is on training for Font in January and climbing on the grit will keep up my attempt at technique. With this in mind I headed out to try Blind Fig, unfortunately this would have involved some deep water soloing! Not to be discouraged I went over to try Striker. A hard V10 that has seen very few ascents (Moon, Pearson and Adams?). I suppose it would be described as a dyno but its a funky one. Pulling on with a block undercut and a crimp, you smear your feet high up the wall and go to a 5mm index finger shot hole. By crimping the shot hole you raise your body and then go again for a slopey break, as you catch this only your left hand stays in contact with the rock! After ripping a vertical split over an inch long in my finger, I taped it up and managed to send the problem!! Very pleased, a brilliant couple of moves and one off my to-do list.
I then headed inside for a board session, my skin hurt and so I concentrated on big lockie moves between good holds, staying open at all times of course. Weights and core today, with team training in Newcastle at the weekend, sure Earl with have some nasty things instore for us!
Tuesday, 1 December 2009
Friday, 6 November 2009
The Frankenjura
This place is magical, it has a similar feeling to Fontainbleau. Limestone escarpments peak (no pun intended) out between the trees and moss coversed boulders lie forgotten about in the depths of the forests. Not many people come here solely to boulder and I can see why, you really do need someone in the know how to show you around.
Feurzange. 8a+
Feurzange. 8a+Luckily we did, Fabian, Mona and Seb made us feel right home; showing us a huge number of problems and also where all the good watering holes were! That is definately a plus point of the place- the beer is excellent!
The climbing is also brilliant, although there are not so many majestic lines, the quality of the rock and movement involved make up for that. It also a place that you thoroughly get shut down, no holiday grades here! However that did not stop us from getting things done, although the weather and injurues definately tried to halt us in our tracks. That is a downside of the place; it has weather like England. We suffered a great deal of rain and lots of condensation on the rock when it was a bit warmer.
A brief run through of some of the high- and low-lights of the trip:
Back 2 Varian went out with a bad finger, however it did get better (and then got worse again) maybe something to do with the brutal crimping on Omega Man, a classic 8a/+ that he crushed.
Crimping Thompson managed a few good ticks in his two weeks with us including knockenmuhle, a cool, steep powerful 8a.
He was replaced by Lee 'dense loner' Anderson who brought with him dark humour, sarcasm and rain! He also invented new words in scrabble (foy can mean anything you desire) and schooled us all at monopoly.
Ned came out of retirement for a few days and crushed a bunch of 8a's and above including violation and Feurzange both 8a + and both on the same day! Grrrr the pale ghost is back!
Of the Aussie contingent Andy unfortunately had to go home after his finger (previously injured) flared up again big time and he couldnt take the pain of watching Benjamin Cossey climbing whilst he could only belay! Ben crushed routes and boulders whlist all the time putting his real efforts into Action Direct. He did Sea of Green and 8a+ bloc and Plan B and 8b route.
As for myself I managed to do a few 7c's and some good 8's also-
Knockenmuhle 8a
Billiard 8a
Lucky Punch 8a
V2 8a
Evergreen Terrace 8a+
Terminator 8a
Evergreen Terrace. 8a+
Evergreen Terrace. 8a+In summary I had an ace trip, stayed in a real nice house (where Dai stays when he crushes the place), met some quality people who will no doubt be friends for life and the climbing wasnt half bad either!
Innsbrooklyn
A nice starting picture for this post of Ned, Keith and I freezing our bollocks off after a swin under Dolby Digital in the Zillertal!
Me and Ned headed to Innsbruck at the end of September to see Keith. I will keep it brief but Innsbruck is a sweet place to reside! Keith and James apartment is PIMP, the city seems lively and there is lots of good climbing and skiing close by. Perfect! We spent 5 days there mainly eating pizza and sampling some fine ice cream but squeezed in a bit of climbing to at Zillertal and Silvretta.
At zillertal we met up with my friend Emi who had just returned from South Africa. We warmed up and then got straight onto the main event, Incubator. This is an old Jerry project which unfortaunately if often wet. However we lucked out and although it was warm a cool breeze was blowing right by, drying the holds out to a holdable state! I quickly sussed the moves and started some attempts from the bottom, the first move is the hardest move in my opinion but it relies on timing rather than brutal strength. After a few attempts I stuck the move and proceeded to climb the bloc to the top. A very occasion for me to not be a punt and drop the top, although I nearly did as I hadnt been on it!! Very pleased indeed as it was a climb I had always wanted to do.
Incubator, 8B.
Taken by Emi Moosburger
Incubator, 8B.Our next climbing was a day trip to Silvretta, a very beautiful alpine bouldering venue at about 2000 metres. The rock quality here though is not so good, it is sharp and leaves you in tears. However I had one of my best days out climbing, we met up with Stew Watson, Luki and Elias. I managed to climb 3 problems that were graded 8a (one was even a flash) but realistically British Airways and Niviuk are 7c/+ and the Shining more like 7c+/8a. I was made up though especially as the Shining is sooooooo crimpy! We saw Memento and had a brief play but my skin was burning, Stew went back the week after and sent it packing, good effort!! Just as we were packing up the clouds that had started to look menacing decided to unload hale all over us! Nevermind back to Innsbruck for Pizza ans ice cream!
Ned on the Shining, 8A.
Taken by Elias Holzkencht
Ned on the Shining, 8A.Tuesday, 1 September 2009
Anstonia and Training
I have been heading to Anston Stones (near worksop) recently, the limestone here is magnesium based rather than the more typical calcium based rock that is found in white peak area. The rock is softer but creates much better features and lines than the calcium based stuff.
At the weekend I managed to get the 2nd ascent of an amazing Mike Adams problem called Warriors Peril (8a). This is one of the finest problems that I have ever climbed, it is the full package! About 14 moves in length it involves compression, undercuts, pockets and crimps; bicycles, smears, toe and heel hooks. There is even a bit of spice thrown in at the end just when your really pumped for that added challenge. Earlier in the week I had worked out the moves and had a few burns from the start but fading light meant that I had to return on Sunday. After a brief warm up I decided to try to link the problem as the rest day had not left me feeling rested at all!
My first go I managed to get through to the last move only to catch the final crimp wrong, instead of adjusting it I carried on but not feeling comfortable after the foot movement I dropped off, what an idiot! My next go I got to the same move, feeling much better I knew that I was in, only my heel to rip! As I was holding the cut loose my right hand greased off the crimp leading to a scary fall (cheers Andy for the spot).
Third time lucky I thought or was it to turn into a last moveitis problem, which is the norm for me. I took a long rest, ate some cashews and dispatched with ease (I think) on my next go!! I was relieved but also so pleased to have done such a high quality problem. During the climb I hit all the holds right and had that feeling, that I dont get often enough, I knew if I just concentrated that I would be in.
This was one of last things I wanted to do before heading to the Jura at the end of September and with the others all being a few hours drive away I will mainly be training and working in the upcoming weeks. Yesterday I came up with my own mini Gaskins project on the board at the Works. I am sure he could do it in his sleep but for me each move is close to my crimp and core limit! Very psyched to try and get it done before I go, it always amazes me how chunks of wood can entertain and motivate so much in our sport!!
Hopefully some pictures or even footage to follow if I manage to head back out that way in this tropical weather!
At the weekend I managed to get the 2nd ascent of an amazing Mike Adams problem called Warriors Peril (8a). This is one of the finest problems that I have ever climbed, it is the full package! About 14 moves in length it involves compression, undercuts, pockets and crimps; bicycles, smears, toe and heel hooks. There is even a bit of spice thrown in at the end just when your really pumped for that added challenge. Earlier in the week I had worked out the moves and had a few burns from the start but fading light meant that I had to return on Sunday. After a brief warm up I decided to try to link the problem as the rest day had not left me feeling rested at all!
My first go I managed to get through to the last move only to catch the final crimp wrong, instead of adjusting it I carried on but not feeling comfortable after the foot movement I dropped off, what an idiot! My next go I got to the same move, feeling much better I knew that I was in, only my heel to rip! As I was holding the cut loose my right hand greased off the crimp leading to a scary fall (cheers Andy for the spot).
Third time lucky I thought or was it to turn into a last moveitis problem, which is the norm for me. I took a long rest, ate some cashews and dispatched with ease (I think) on my next go!! I was relieved but also so pleased to have done such a high quality problem. During the climb I hit all the holds right and had that feeling, that I dont get often enough, I knew if I just concentrated that I would be in.
This was one of last things I wanted to do before heading to the Jura at the end of September and with the others all being a few hours drive away I will mainly be training and working in the upcoming weeks. Yesterday I came up with my own mini Gaskins project on the board at the Works. I am sure he could do it in his sleep but for me each move is close to my crimp and core limit! Very psyched to try and get it done before I go, it always amazes me how chunks of wood can entertain and motivate so much in our sport!!
Hopefully some pictures or even footage to follow if I manage to head back out that way in this tropical weather!
Thursday, 20 August 2009
Outdoors and Getting Stronger
So as the title says I have been trying to juggle the two. How successfully I am doing this who knows, I do feel quite strong and I am managing to get up some things. Had a brilliant time up in northumberland and the lakes with Ned, Dan, Tom and Katy. We visited some fine, fine sandstone, took a trip to the seaside and pulled hard on the giant Bowder pebble. The trip was very laid back with hot weather and huge amounts of food consumed!! Definately heading back up there at some point before we depart for the Jura.
So the Jura is getting closer, only 6 weeks. I am trying to earn as much money as possible while training hard. I have mainly been using the board at the works- trying projects and then getting in some mileage on more familar problems. I love the board, how hard you have to try to scrape your way to the top and how completely fatigued you feel by the end of a session!!
Today I decided to go on the campus board. Now this is something that I do very rarely. Dont ask me why but campusing is a form of training that I have never really participated in. So it was to my great surprise when I managed to float up 1-5-8 on both sides and get close(ish) to 1-5-9 when leading with my right arm!! I then did some power endurance which was my real reason for going on the campus board. I remember Andy Earl once showing us a routine he used to do. I set my sights on this and got shut down, excellent, something to really get my teeth into. Basically it involves doing 1-4-6 on both arms followed straight away by 1-4-7 and then 1-5-8!! I did this 3 times and could barely get past 5 at the end!!
Everytime I campus I remember how much I love the feeling and motion of it. I will definately be doing some more before we head off but the board is the real focus, I feel this can yield the biggest gains in shortest amount of time.
I have recently been thinking about lifetime climbing goals, here is what I have come up with:
We will see what the future holds, for now its back to the juggling...
So the Jura is getting closer, only 6 weeks. I am trying to earn as much money as possible while training hard. I have mainly been using the board at the works- trying projects and then getting in some mileage on more familar problems. I love the board, how hard you have to try to scrape your way to the top and how completely fatigued you feel by the end of a session!!
Today I decided to go on the campus board. Now this is something that I do very rarely. Dont ask me why but campusing is a form of training that I have never really participated in. So it was to my great surprise when I managed to float up 1-5-8 on both sides and get close(ish) to 1-5-9 when leading with my right arm!! I then did some power endurance which was my real reason for going on the campus board. I remember Andy Earl once showing us a routine he used to do. I set my sights on this and got shut down, excellent, something to really get my teeth into. Basically it involves doing 1-4-6 on both arms followed straight away by 1-4-7 and then 1-5-8!! I did this 3 times and could barely get past 5 at the end!!
Everytime I campus I remember how much I love the feeling and motion of it. I will definately be doing some more before we head off but the board is the real focus, I feel this can yield the biggest gains in shortest amount of time.
I have recently been thinking about lifetime climbing goals, here is what I have come up with:
- Climb Hubble (I tried this in the blazing heat last week. More strength is definately needed and this is a winter aim with the idea of completing this next summer).
- 1-5-9 on both arms.
- Climb consistently hard problems wherever I go and on varying rock types
- Stand on the podium at a world cup round
- Climb 8B+ boulder
We will see what the future holds, for now its back to the juggling...
Darkside of the Moon
One of the best problems I have done. Darkside of the Moon at St.Bees is perfect, if it only it were taller!
Sunday, 21 June 2009
Mutton Busting
Having returned from the Eindhoven World Cup inspired I thought I would take the opportunity to get back out on the lime. A couple of weeks ago I had my first session on a brilliant roof problem in Blackwell Dale. Mutton Busting is the sit start to an amzing 7b of Rupert Davies. Ned the first ascent of this problem last summer and it has seen just 2 ascemts from 'back 2' Varian and Mick Adams.
I knew that all I needed was some slightly cooler conditions to dispatch as last session I did the moves and worked out my sequence. Driving out to the peak it was overcast and a slight breeze was blowing, fingers crossed it would be dry. Upon arrival I warmed up and conditions seemed ok, a couple of damp holds but with chalk they dried up.
The first 2 moves make the problem: Starting with a big heel, a small crimp and pinch, the left hands slap around the lip to a back 3 pod and my index finger sits on a papule of rock. Some tensiony foot moves allow the right hand to slap round the lip into a digonal crack. From here the problem finishes on some slopey pinches and a big throw to the top off a strange side pull.
When Ned origionally did it he gave it a speculative 8a. However Dan and Mick both thought 8a+, to me it felt harder than most 8a's so low end 8a+?! Who knows! Whatever the grade the climbing is phenomenal-very techy yet powerful and dynamic makes for a spicy cocktail. It should be high up on any peak aficionado's list!
This morning I awoke psyched and headed out to Crag X to finish off a problem called 'Bizarre Ride'. I dropped the finishing jug last week due to being a numpty! This is a new problem that my friend Gangle put up about a month ago. It is slightly eliminate but there is not enough roof climbing in the peak and the moves are excellent. It is 4 moves long and requires good tension, dynamism and a bit of luck in getting a frustrating heel to stay put on a spike. After warming up and having a few false starts my skin and body were wearing thin. I pulled on, dispatched the first lock, got the heel to stay and threw out to the good pinch, blindly throwing around the lip I stuck the vulkan crimp, cutting loose I swung my feet back on and didnt drop the jug this time!!
A good couple of days! Am psyched for power endurance training at the Foundry at the moment, hoping it will help me in the BBC's, so I will be heading down there this week as well as fingerboarding and perhaps having a look at Hubble!!
Hopefully some pictures to follow.
I knew that all I needed was some slightly cooler conditions to dispatch as last session I did the moves and worked out my sequence. Driving out to the peak it was overcast and a slight breeze was blowing, fingers crossed it would be dry. Upon arrival I warmed up and conditions seemed ok, a couple of damp holds but with chalk they dried up.
The first 2 moves make the problem: Starting with a big heel, a small crimp and pinch, the left hands slap around the lip to a back 3 pod and my index finger sits on a papule of rock. Some tensiony foot moves allow the right hand to slap round the lip into a digonal crack. From here the problem finishes on some slopey pinches and a big throw to the top off a strange side pull.
When Ned origionally did it he gave it a speculative 8a. However Dan and Mick both thought 8a+, to me it felt harder than most 8a's so low end 8a+?! Who knows! Whatever the grade the climbing is phenomenal-very techy yet powerful and dynamic makes for a spicy cocktail. It should be high up on any peak aficionado's list!
This morning I awoke psyched and headed out to Crag X to finish off a problem called 'Bizarre Ride'. I dropped the finishing jug last week due to being a numpty! This is a new problem that my friend Gangle put up about a month ago. It is slightly eliminate but there is not enough roof climbing in the peak and the moves are excellent. It is 4 moves long and requires good tension, dynamism and a bit of luck in getting a frustrating heel to stay put on a spike. After warming up and having a few false starts my skin and body were wearing thin. I pulled on, dispatched the first lock, got the heel to stay and threw out to the good pinch, blindly throwing around the lip I stuck the vulkan crimp, cutting loose I swung my feet back on and didnt drop the jug this time!!
A good couple of days! Am psyched for power endurance training at the Foundry at the moment, hoping it will help me in the BBC's, so I will be heading down there this week as well as fingerboarding and perhaps having a look at Hubble!!
Hopefully some pictures to follow.
Tuesday, 19 May 2009
The Return....
Well its been along time since my last blog, am not sure of the exact reasons. I went through a time of very low psyche and didnt feel that spreading the word of this was to necessary. Another reason is that I didnt want to just dribble on. When I look at someones blog I like pictures and videos, and to put it simply I just dont have any at the moment.
Ok so excuses and introduction over and on to the main meat. For the past month I have mainly been climbing outside and fingerboarding. This had been due to a niggling finger injury which for some reason is fine on the lime but on plastic it aint too good. Luckily this is going, unluckily I have another slight tweak which is keeping me away from my love of pockets.
My opinion on most injuries is that you can always climb around them, especailly when fingerboard training. So this is what I am doing. My psyche had returned recently and I feel that my strength has raised itself by about half a level! Its a start...
Have had quite a few good ticks recently and obviously with this comes a further raise in your psyche.
Got a world cup round in Eindhoven in a month so my fitness needs to be increased big time. Gonna mix this in with fingerboading and getting out as much as the damn rain allow. As for more long term plans: I want to do Superman using the sidepull (feels hard), a summer of training and climbing around the UK in spots I havent visited before, then off to the Frankenjura in October and hopefully Font after Christmas.
Fingers crossed the injuries go and my psyche returns (hopefully Lanny Bassham will help, if it worked for Jerry then its worth a shot)!
Ok so excuses and introduction over and on to the main meat. For the past month I have mainly been climbing outside and fingerboarding. This had been due to a niggling finger injury which for some reason is fine on the lime but on plastic it aint too good. Luckily this is going, unluckily I have another slight tweak which is keeping me away from my love of pockets.
My opinion on most injuries is that you can always climb around them, especailly when fingerboard training. So this is what I am doing. My psyche had returned recently and I feel that my strength has raised itself by about half a level! Its a start...
Have had quite a few good ticks recently and obviously with this comes a further raise in your psyche.
Got a world cup round in Eindhoven in a month so my fitness needs to be increased big time. Gonna mix this in with fingerboading and getting out as much as the damn rain allow. As for more long term plans: I want to do Superman using the sidepull (feels hard), a summer of training and climbing around the UK in spots I havent visited before, then off to the Frankenjura in October and hopefully Font after Christmas.
Fingers crossed the injuries go and my psyche returns (hopefully Lanny Bassham will help, if it worked for Jerry then its worth a shot)!
Tuesday, 18 November 2008
Sunday, 2 November 2008
Fontainberry!
C'etait Demain, 8a.Just returned from Font after my first time in colder conditions. What an amazing place! I cant wait to get back. Not having my own car meant that I just went where everyone else wanted to go. This suited me; I just did classics and lines that took my eye (which was lots)!
Managed to do the first 8a in the forest which was awesome, I actually did it twice it was that good. Apart from that I just did a bunch of good 7's and pottered around, I didnt even see most of the problems I wanted to try but next time....
Am heading back for a month in February so hopefully will get some harder things ticked then. I would love to do the big 4 and there are a few other things I am really keen for, mainly old skool hard problems!
Psyched for some training this week and then heading to work on Friday for the week.
Ticks:
C'etait Demain 8a
Armes d'supplement assis 7c+
Berezina 7c (2nd go)
Alta 7c
L'arrache Coeur 7c
Fourmis Rouge 7c
Infidele 7c
Rubis sur longe 7b+ (2nd go)
Carnage 7b (flash)
Sunday, 12 October 2008
Anston Stones
The Vision, V9Yesterday a team of us headed over to a limestone bouldering venue near Worksop. Its always good to get to new places especially where there is a wide range of grades and different styles of climbing.
After warming up we got stuck into a V9 called 'Ebola'. This problem was extremely cool and the crux revoled around a dynamic move off a pocket to a side pull. A few goes to suss out the moves and I was at the top, the holds were a bit rough but the climbing thoroughly excellent.
Next up a V9 called 'The Vision', the crux was the first move; pulling off a mono and a back two pocket to slap a left hand sloper. A strange crimp and another mono and I was again at the top.
We then moved on to try a burly roof climb called 'Dark Art'. This involved all areas of climbing from core, fingers and burl to finese and technique. I worked out the moves pretty quickly and was trying the red point. I had one good go and should of held the last hard move but my heel ripped. Had a few other good goes but was tiring fast and the holds seemed to be getting damper! Unfortunately I get finishing off syndrone and this problem is added to the list of blocs I should have ticked but next time hopefully!
I will definately be heading back to the crag at some point but maybe not till next spring now due to seepage!
Off to Paris tomorrow then Font for 3 weeks!!!
Monday, 29 September 2008
The Hulk! Raaaaa!
Headed to the crag where the the big green monster resides on Saturday. It was boiling hot but when got down to the rock it felt pretty cool. Unfortunately it was also quite wet. We started to dry holds off and conditions felt ok if a little spoogy. Now I know V10 isnt really much these days but the 'Hulk' has always felt nails to me, far harder than the 'Thing' which stands at V11 so to do it would be awesome.
I have never got anywhere on it before, just pulling on felt hard but today I could pull on and almost static the first move. I was pleased but still didnt think it would go. The second move is definately the crux but I crushed that el static and proceeded on wet holds to the top!! I was extremely psyched! Even on wet holds I felt really strong! As always I had been filming others on the 'Thing' but my unexpected ascent was not recorded. Oh well!
Did a core session yesterday with a British Olympic diver; some good stuff and I do ache a bit today!
I have never got anywhere on it before, just pulling on felt hard but today I could pull on and almost static the first move. I was pleased but still didnt think it would go. The second move is definately the crux but I crushed that el static and proceeded on wet holds to the top!! I was extremely psyched! Even on wet holds I felt really strong! As always I had been filming others on the 'Thing' but my unexpected ascent was not recorded. Oh well!
Did a core session yesterday with a British Olympic diver; some good stuff and I do ache a bit today!
Friday, 26 September 2008
Motivation-A very strange thing!
Not got any recent photos so here is one my friend just sent me from Hueco of 'Power of Lanjager', V11.Not blogged for a while but then havent had much to write really. I havent really been psyched for anything around the Peak so have just been training; lots of core and fingerboarding. I am feeling pretty strong but not so fit!
Went out the other day to show Ned and Mina around Roche Abbey. They both thought the rock quality was brilliant and problems good to. I managed to do 'Addiction', V10 from sitting first go which was cool as i wasnt even going to try it.
After that we headed to try an amazing V11 at a crag near by. It revolves around 2 (very) big moves; I got quite close to both of them but felt very tired very quickly, am psyched to go back as its one of the best problems I have tried for ages and it feels HARD, which is always a bonus!
Got a few weeks left till Paris, unfortunately one of them will be spent at work. Then I am off to Font for 3 weeks!! Woop woop, I have only been in summer so am looking forward to some better conditions hopefully! Then am going out to Swiss for 3 weeks, I cant wait!!
Thursday, 7 August 2008
5 Days On!!
I am going down south this weekend for a family do so I thought I would try and cram a lot into this week, climbing wise at least!
Sunday: I headed out onto the lime, conditions were very hot and pretty rubbish, managed a few ticks and a few splits!
Monday: I fingerboarded, and enjoyed this very much although my skin did not. I had personal bests on my frenchie sets.
Tuesday: Campused; Although I felt tired I managed 1-4-7 five out of six sets (very good for me)! Did a few eliminates on the comp wall.
Wednesday: Headed over to Manchester to stay with James and Em for the night. We had a quick session at the wall doing most of the harder problems, then enjoyed yummy food (thanks Em) and watched films!
Thursday: Headed out on lime again, what a mistake I should of finger boarded. It was so humid, possibly the worst conditions I have ever climbed in. Then it rained and we got wet!
So a few days of rest and eating nice food; next week I am just training! I was pleased with climbing 5 days on and not feeling too tired on any of the days, maybe I am building up just a small amount of fitness?!
A bit of blurred/dark picture of 'The Fool' (V8+) at Beef Buttress. Dont know why but I like it!
Sunday: I headed out onto the lime, conditions were very hot and pretty rubbish, managed a few ticks and a few splits!
Monday: I fingerboarded, and enjoyed this very much although my skin did not. I had personal bests on my frenchie sets.
Tuesday: Campused; Although I felt tired I managed 1-4-7 five out of six sets (very good for me)! Did a few eliminates on the comp wall.
Wednesday: Headed over to Manchester to stay with James and Em for the night. We had a quick session at the wall doing most of the harder problems, then enjoyed yummy food (thanks Em) and watched films!
Thursday: Headed out on lime again, what a mistake I should of finger boarded. It was so humid, possibly the worst conditions I have ever climbed in. Then it rained and we got wet!
So a few days of rest and eating nice food; next week I am just training! I was pleased with climbing 5 days on and not feeling too tired on any of the days, maybe I am building up just a small amount of fitness?!
A bit of blurred/dark picture of 'The Fool' (V8+) at Beef Buttress. Dont know why but I like it!
Sunday, 3 August 2008
Training, Lime & Training
Started training again and am lovin' it I have to say. Have started campusing (cause I am rubbish at it) and fingerboarding as well as trying to mix up the climbing with indoors and outdoors. Although conditions have been far from perfect I have managed to tick a few problems this last week at some of the more esoteric limestone spots.
Each session has ended up with a split tip and the need to go back and finish off a problem, oh for good conditions!
Here is a video of the 2nd ascent of a brilliant V9 called Alacrity. Its at an undisclosed area for now but all will be revealed soon enough.
Untitled from david mason on Vimeo.
I have also done a few other 9's at a place over near Rotherham. These problems are some of the best that I have done on limestone, showing that our area is far from mined out!! I will try and get some other pictures and video up soon.
In the mean time, I have to let my tip heal and onwards with the training, fingerboarding tomorrow. Woop woop!!
Each session has ended up with a split tip and the need to go back and finish off a problem, oh for good conditions!
Here is a video of the 2nd ascent of a brilliant V9 called Alacrity. Its at an undisclosed area for now but all will be revealed soon enough.
Untitled from david mason on Vimeo.
I have also done a few other 9's at a place over near Rotherham. These problems are some of the best that I have done on limestone, showing that our area is far from mined out!! I will try and get some other pictures and video up soon.
In the mean time, I have to let my tip heal and onwards with the training, fingerboarding tomorrow. Woop woop!!
Wednesday, 16 July 2008
And so it Begins....
I began training again on Monday and to say that I am psyched is an understatement. I did a fingerboard session on Monday evening in the comfort of the new houses cellar. I didnt sweat once, amazing! I only did three different exercises but 5 sets of each and I think they will help a lot, I am gonna try and do this twice a week with maybe a pockets hang session too.
Today I headed to the works with new British Champ Ned; we did a campus session and then tried the yellow circuit. Campusing was good, I have never really done any sustained campus training and am very psyched for it. For the time being I am just doing Simpsons training that is posted on the Moon website. Gonna try and do this 1/2 times a week. The yellow circuit is hard with some real dirt on it, managed about half before pumping out! Fitness is my main area to work on and luckily Ned is always psyched for this so hopefully he can kick my ass in to gear.
I tried a one arm front lever today! Wanna do this before 2009 arrives!
Today I headed to the works with new British Champ Ned; we did a campus session and then tried the yellow circuit. Campusing was good, I have never really done any sustained campus training and am very psyched for it. For the time being I am just doing Simpsons training that is posted on the Moon website. Gonna try and do this 1/2 times a week. The yellow circuit is hard with some real dirt on it, managed about half before pumping out! Fitness is my main area to work on and luckily Ned is always psyched for this so hopefully he can kick my ass in to gear.
I tried a one arm front lever today! Wanna do this before 2009 arrives!
Monday, 14 July 2008
BBC's
Yesterday was the British Bouldering Championships in Millhouses Park, Sheffield. I was a bit apprehensive about competing due to my shoulder and so started off very slowly. Unfortunately nearly all the qualifiers seemed to have some sort of right shoulder move on them. After a while I started to pick up a few points and towards the end I was in with a chance of qualifying for the finals. However a few foot slips and the cautious climbing from earlier kept me out. I finished in 10th with 8 going through to the final. I was pleased to have been close with no training and holding back during the comp but also a bit disappointed because I think I could have qualified if I had been a little bit more outgoing. Oh well, next year!!
The finals problems looked good (think they would have suited me). Effort to Shaggy and Tom for representing the Bingly massive in the finals, Stew and Dave both climbed really well but young whipper snapper Ned pipped them both on the last problem, big ups to the boy! He climbed really well and deserved it!
The whole event seemed to go really well so congrats to everyone involved!
The finals problems looked good (think they would have suited me). Effort to Shaggy and Tom for representing the Bingly massive in the finals, Stew and Dave both climbed really well but young whipper snapper Ned pipped them both on the last problem, big ups to the boy! He climbed really well and deserved it!
The whole event seemed to go really well so congrats to everyone involved!
Friday, 11 July 2008
Photographs for your Pleasure!
High Spirit 8a+/b
Left Hand of Darkness 8a+
Voigas 8a+
Frogger 8a (and cobweb)
Sunshine after the Rain
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