Thursday 31 January 2008

Getting Better! Slightly!

Well been here a few more days now and I am starting to get it together a bit more. My friend Adam arrived on Tuesday which is good, a fellow Brit to represent. Had one of my best days of climbing yesterday on West Mountain, which has some real gems on it.

Flashed a cool V9 called 'Shroom', then did '1969' a very atypical problem of Hueco; slopers and compression up a vertical wall. Moved on next to 'Best of the Best' which is an amazing but very long problem. Kevin and Adam got quite close. Too long for me!

Next went to a problem called 'Eckagrata' involving two finger pockets and a cool dyno. Finished the day on 'Scream', one of the best lines in Hueco (in my opinion), very grit like, revolving around a left-hand switch from a sloper to a gaston!

East Spur tomorrow, going to start working 'Full Monty'!!

Sunday 27 January 2008

Thursday 24 January 2008

Hueco Tanks

I have been here for about a week now and so far I havent climbed without tape on my fingers!! This place is sharp! It also takes getting used to but am just coming to terms with it. Met lots of cool people and even landed myself a camper to stay in, sweet, especially when the wind gets up! Everyone is super friendly, even with my constant abuse!

The climbing is pretty cool and have just been scoping stuff out really as I adjust to the crimpiness of the climbing. I have got close to lots but not sent so much yet. Did 'The Flame' the other day which is cool looking prow, although a bit boxed, in the rock is really nice. Fell off yesterday with my hand on the finishing jug of 'Power of Silence' which was a bit disappointing but it seems to be a lot of peoples bogey problem! Its an amazing line and definately hard for the grade! Hopefully will do some more dispatching soon, as I feel close to quite a few things.

Off to see 'Slashface' tomorrow which I am very psyched for!

Other than that I am trying to teach these yanks a thing or two about the English language and they seem intent on taking the piss out of my accent!

Hopefully a few photos soon depending on how quickly my friend gets his ass in to gear.

Saturday 5 January 2008

Curbaaaaar!

Play Hard, 7c.

Lots of rain last night, so I assumed everywhere would be wet but how wrong I was. Warmed up on the trackside boulder and Ben persuaded me to have a few goes on 'Play Hard'. Not great to look at but moves that are tres bon. Actually ended up doing it twice. 'Work Hard' next time if I have the lank.

Moved on to 'Great White' next, I had tried this the other day with Jon Boy but couldnt hold the last pocket. After about 10 goes it was looking like that would be the case again but I pulled something out the bag. This problem is amazing and I think everyone should go and do it!!!

Wanted to do 'Hurricane' too so headed up as the sun was sinking. I kept hitting the top fully but couldnt hold it (dont ask me why), fatigue was catching up with me and so was the light. Ah well next time for that little bugger!

Great day but no skin now!!

Wednesday 2 January 2008

A Random Pic!!

Made in Norway (7b), Chironico

A random picture from Swiss in April. Taken by Simon Richardson of Dark Peak Images.